The North Coast 500, often dubbed Scotland's Route 66, is a breathtaking journey that winds through some of the most stunning landscapes the country has to offer.

Embarking on an anticlockwise adventure from Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, this three-day trip promised me an unforgettable experience. This is my homeland, brimming with natural beauty, historic sites, and charming villages. I was really excited to do this.

**Day 1: Inverness to Ullapool**

On the three day we hit the following:

From Inverness to Applecross (Wester Ross)

• Inverness, Beauly, Muir of Ord, Strathpeffer, Garve, Lochcarron, Shieldaig, Applecross (via the Bealach na Bà)

And our afternoon hit the following Applecross to Ullapool 

• Torridon, Kinlochewe, Gairloch, Poolewe, Laide, Aultbea, Dundonnell, Ullapool

 Starting in Inverness, a city steeped in history and culture, we excited travellers set off across the Kessock Bridge, catching glimpses of the Moray Firth below. The first notable stop was the Black Isle, with its quaint village of Beauly and the historic Beauly Priory, founded in the 13th century. Continuing westward, the route leads to the shores of Loch Maree, a stunning freshwater loch surrounded by towering mountains. Here, the Victorian marvel of the Aultbea Hotel offered a perfect spot for a leisurely lunch with views of the serene waters.

 Onwards to the picturesque village of Gairloch, where the stunning Gairloch Beach and the charming Gairloch Museum provided delightful diversions. A short drive further, the road reaches the beautiful Inverewe Garden, a lush botanical oasis that thrives thanks to the warm currents of the Gulf Stream. Our day's journey concluded in Ullapool, a bustling fishing town on the shores of Loch Broom. Ullapool's vibrant harbor, lined with seafood restaurants and traditional pubs, is the perfect place to unwind and savour local delicacies. It also offered a wonderful Scottish music extravaganza with a guy on a ‘squeeze box’, which left us all toe tapping singing along as much as our limited knowledge of the words would allow.

 **Day 2: Ullapool to Thurso**

Our day two towns and villages were: - Ardmair, Achiltibuie (off the main route, but popular), Lochinver, Clachtoll, Drumbeg, Scourie, Kinlochbervie, Durness, Tongue, Bettyhill, Melvich, Strathy, Reay, Thurso

 Leaving Ullapool, our route headed north along the rugged coastline, offering dramatic sea views and an array of wildlife. We drove through the charming villages of Lochinver and Drumbeg, each with its unique attractions and welcoming atmosphere. A must-see along this stretch is the hauntingly beautiful Ardvreck Castle, a ruined fortress standing proudly on a rocky promontory jutting into Loch Assynt. Ardvreck has a sad myth about the daughter of the owner throwing herself to her death on her wedding night to avoid a night with her new husband. A lesson well learned 😊

 Further along, the road winds through the quaint hamlet of Durness, where Smoo Cave awaits exploration. This massive sea cave, with its cascading waterfall and deep chambers, is one of the most striking natural wonders on the route. Walking down the steep steps was tough going, but seeing the faces on the people climbing back up those same steep steps was terrifying. They looked in pain. Lots of pain; and that was to be my fate soon.

 We then continued to the remote and tranquil Kyle of Tongue, offering stunning views of Ben Loyal and Ben Hope, the northernmost Munros in Scotland.

The final leg of the day's journey leads to Thurso, the northernmost town on the British mainland. Thurso is steeped in history, with sites such as the 12th-century Old St. Peter's Church and the nearby ruins of Castlehill. The town also serves as a gateway to the Orkney Islands, visible across the Pentland Firth. As night fell, we all looked forward to a clear night and an unprecedented view of the Aurora Borealis.

 **Day 3: Thurso to Inverness**

Our last day on the NC500 saw us go through and visit the following :- Castletown, Dunnet, John o’ Groats,  Keiss, Wick, Lybster, Helmsdale, Brora, Golspie, Dornoch, Tain, Invergordon, Alness, Evanton, Beauly 

 Our final day of the journey started with a scenic drive along the northern coast, passing through the historic village of John o' Groats. Known as the northeastern tip of the British mainland, John o' Groats is a popular spot for photos and a short walk along the dramatic coastline. It was awesome and I felt a little thrill chill being there. It was also where I purchased Doogie, my new highland Hairy Coo toy companion. I’d also like to mention I was not in love with the nasty primary colours of each building of the hotel there. Yuk!

Continuing east, the route winds through the village of Dunnet, home to the stunning Dunnet Bay and the iconic Dunnet Head Lighthouse, the northernmost point of mainland Britain.

 The journey southward took through the towns of Wick and Helmsdale, each rich with history and local charm. Wick's heritage was as a bustling fishing port is showcased at the Wick Heritage Museum but sadly those days are over with the stocks of fish running out and the town failing somewhat because of the lack of a replacement economy. While Helmsdale offers the fascinating Timespan Museum and Arts Centre, and delves into the region's cultural and industrial history. As our journey neared its end, a visit to Dunrobin Castle near Golspie was a must. This magnificent castle, resembling a French chateau, has exquisite gardens and a museum filled with artifacts from the region's storied past.

Finally, the road leads back to Inverness, completing my North Coast 500 circuit. The journey concluded with a sense of accomplishment and a wealth of memories, having traversed some of Scotland's most breathtaking and storied landscapes. From historic castles to dramatic coastlines and welcoming villages, the North Coast 500 offers an unparalleled adventure that showcases the very best of the Scottish Highlands and was an adventure I had wanted to undertake for a long time.

After my adventure around the NC500 I stayed in Inverness and explored around the city. This was my third or fourth time there and it’s really growing on me. The first time was December and very cold so we didn’t explore much in the twelve hours here but this time I really wanted to walk around even along the River Ness and up past the Caledonian Canal which would be a 16 km trek. All very new and exciting. Scotland even laid on the weather for me.

But the other reason I stayed was that my travels weren’t over. In two days I was heading to the Outer Hebrides and my excitement knew no bounds.

Day 1: Exploring the Island of Lewis

The adventure began with a scenic ferry trip from Ullapool to Stornoway, the bustling capital of the Isle of Lewis. As the ferry glides sailed the waters of the Minch, we took in breathtaking views of the rugged coastline and the vast expanse of the North Atlantic Ocean. Arriving in Stornoway, the largest town in the Outer Hebrides, we were greeted by its charming harbor and the distinctive Lews Castle overlooking the bay.

Our first afternoon was dedicated to exploring the rich history and culture of Lewis, starting with a visit to the Black House at Arnol. This traditional thatched stone house offers a glimpse into the past, showcasing the way of life for islanders in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Inside, the smoky peat fire, simple furnishings, and authentic artifacts transport visitors back in time, illustrating the resilience and resourcefulness of the local community. The Black House experience is both educational and evocative, highlighting the unique heritage of the island.

Afterward, we explored the island’s natural beauty. A drive through the stunning landscape reveals windswept moors, ancient standing stones, and dramatic cliffs. The Callanish Standing Stones, older than Stonehenge, are particularly awe-inspiring, standing sentinel against the sky and sparking the imagination with thoughts of ancient rituals and celestial alignments. As the day winds down, returning to Stornoway for a delicious meal featuring fresh local seafood was the perfect way to end the day. I mean, why wouldn’t you??

Day 2: Discovering the Island of Harris

The second day involved us heading south to the Island of Harris, known for its contrasting landscapes of rugged mountains and idyllic beaches. And good grief were they idyllic. Even the journey from Lewis to Harris itself is a visual treat, as the road weaves through rolling hills and along the coast, offering stunning views at every turn.

 The highlight of the day for me (a gin lover) was a visit to the Harris Distillery, where the art of whisky and gin production is celebrated. Nestled in the small village of Tarbert, the distillery is famed for its Isle of Harris Gin, infused with eight local botanicals including their special ingredient of sugar kelp. A guided tour reveals the meticulous process of crafting these spirits, from the selection of ingredients to the distillation and aging processes.  Having spent a significant amount of time with my mate Andy and his Twelve and a Half Acres Distillery, it was great to see how it happens in another part of the world. Similarly, actually.

Beyond the distillery, Harris also had a wealth of natural beauty to explore. The white sandy beaches of Luskentyre and Scarista, with their turquoise waters, were awesome for a walk. The dramatic landscapes of the North Harris mountains provide opportunities for photography, capturing the wild and untamed beauty of the island. As the day draws to a close, there’s a sense of fulfillment and connection to the Hebrides, with memories of stunning scenery, rich history, and warm hospitality.

It was sometime during these two days that I fell in love with my homeland all over again. Scenery so beautiful and people so friendly, it warms your heart every second. But I did chuckle at some of the attitudes. The islands observe strict church laws of not working on a Sunday and that includes doing shopping and washing. No washing is to be hung out on washing lines on a Sunday; no Sir.  Obviously restaurants and hotels have had to adjust but Tesco has been persuaded to observe these traditions. Initially I thought they were a little….em… 18th Century, but that’s my mainland girl focus. In speaking to one of the lovely ladies working on the reception desk at the hotel, she made it clear that if people wanted mainland conveniences, then they should chuff off back there. She likes Sundays on the Outer Hebrides! The irony of it was she was from Yorkshire. 😊

** Day 1 - the trip north begins. Edinburgh to Oban. **

Who knew getting out of the bus station would be the hardest part of the day??  But we eventually  do and as we make our way towards the Bridges, our driver/guide is telling us about the Scottish industrial heartland that is the Central Belt. 

We’ve also covered the Borders and the farming including all the new technology for grain and more importantly, soft fruits.

But for us, todays focus isn’t the Borders or Central belt of Scotland, it’s the Highlands. And I can't wait.  

I started exploring my country again three years ago with a few winters’ days accompanied my friend Ally. And this was the start. A further week with Marion, a week with dad both in 2023 and the Outer Hebrides and NC500 in 2024. Despite all this, I feel this is the tip of the iceberg and six months with a van is so appealing. 

But back to Scotland with its 31,000 lochs of both sea and fresh water, all surrounded by ice age glens. Spectacular scenery awaits.

And I think it starts with the Kelpies! Awesome 👌 

These mythical beast are amazing. Sitting on the confluence of the Forth and Union canals. There is actually a loch right in the middle of the two statues.

From there our journey took us north past Stirling Castle and to the region of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park.

Stirling the ancient capital of Scotland. It was here in the 12th century when heroes were created in trying to rid the country in the Wars of Independence. Where Robert the Bruce and Wiliam Wallace emerged to endless fame. This is also home to Stirling Castle and the Wallace Monument.  

The Abbey Craig was where the Scots Army could monitor the English troops. Noting at this time the Scots were a mish-mash of volunteers against a professional deployment of English soldiers. The Scots thus needed to resort of guerilla warfare. Where there’s a will, there’s a way!

The Scots eventually securing a temporary victory here in Stirling but only to see Edward I amass his armies and march to Falkirk where the Scots were slayed!  We have such a tragic and dramatic history!

We ventured through the impressive mountains of the West Highlands and the magnificent, whitewashed 18th-century town of Inveraray, home to the Campbell Clan and the Duke of Argyll.

On and on to the banks of Loch Lomond and the village of Luss. Every mile that passed saw the gentle hills of the Trossachs grow into the jagged mountains of the Trossachs and Lomond National Park 

The stunning 23 miles of Loch Lomond was awaiting us as we came into the National Park. 

Lush green fields starts to give way to the craggy landscape of the Highlands. 

There are 282 Munros in Scotland. That being a hill over 3000ft. Ben Lomond is our view today with Ben Nevis later on this trip.

**Day 2 - Exploring Scotland’s Spiritual and Geological Treasures – Oban to Mull, Iona, and Staffa**

One of the most awe-inspiring days of my Scottish adventure began with an early ferry crossing from Oban to the Isle of Mull—a rugged, wild island steeped in history and shaped by dramatic coastal landscapes. Operated by Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac), the journey itself offered a peaceful immersion into the Hebridean seascape, with mountains rising from the water and seabirds wheeling overhead.

From Mull, a smaller ferry carried me across to the sacred island of Iona—widely regarded as the cradle of Celtic Christianity. It was here in 563 AD that St. Columba arrived from Ireland and established a monastery that would become one of the most influential religious centres in Western Europe. Iona’s Abbey, restored over the centuries, remains a powerful symbol of spiritual heritage, its churchyard believed to be the final resting place of over 60 Scottish Kings. Wandering the island's windswept headlands and pristine coves, it was easy to understand how this tiny island, with a current population of just over 100 residents, holds such an outsized place in Scotland’s history.

An optional but unforgettable highlight of the day was a boat trip to the uninhabited Isle of Staffa. This remote outcrop in the Inner Hebrides is famous for Fingal’s Cave—a natural cathedral of basalt columns formed by ancient volcanic activity. The cave’s dramatic acoustics and symmetrical formations inspired composer Felix Mendelssohn to write his Hebrides Overture, also known as “Fingal’s Cave.” The raw geology, paired with the thundering of waves within the cave, was a stark yet beautiful contrast to the tranquil sanctity of Iona.

As the day drew to a close and we returned by ferry to Oban, I carried with me a deeper connection to both Scotland’s spiritual past and its elemental, untamed beauty. This journey through Mull, Iona, and Staffa was not just about the places themselves—but about their enduring stories carved in stone, sea, and soul. My soul to be honest. My soul.

**Day 3 – From Oban to Balmacara via Ballachulish and Glencoe: Highland Majesty and Haunting Histories**

I was packed, showered, and ready well before the sun broke the horizon—breakfasted, caffeinated, and grinning. Perhaps it was the excitement of the day’s route, or maybe something to do with the group of eight extraordinarily handsome German men also staying at my B&B (no, I didn’t sneak a photo—more's the pity!). Breakfast was a delightful affair: fresh stone fruit, grown in tech-enhanced poly tunnels we’d discussed on Day 1, paired with black Scottish tea so strong it could melt a spoon. Heaven in a bowl and a mug.

As we departed Oban, the road north wrapped us in coastal beauty. Skirting the edge of Appin, we passed Castle Stalker, standing proudly on its tidal islet—an impregnable little fortress with roots dating back to the 14th century. From there, the terrain changed as we approached Ballachulish, for some reason it's one of my favourite Highland villages - maybe it's the name. Nestled under its graceful bridge, this picturesque place was once Scotland’s slate capital. Its quarries roofed much of Britain—so durable, in fact, that a Ballachulish slate roof could last 200 years, while modern imports often need replacing after just 20. Today, just one quarry remains functional and can be re-opened, its output reserved for very special addresses—think Balmoral or Edinburgh Castle!

The drive through Glencoe remains my favourite stretch of road in the world. As we climbed over towards Rannoch Moor before turning and descending back into the glen, the mountains seemed to close in protectively. The Caledonian Mountains here, shaped by ancient tectonics, were once joined with the Appalachians before the Atlantic tore them apart—prehistoric cousins now sundered by oceans. And yet, it’s not just geological history that clings to these slopes.

Glencoe is a place of stark beauty and deeper sorrow. In 1692, it was the site of one of Scotland’s most infamous betrayals: the Glencoe Massacre. Following the Jacobite uprising, King William of Orange required Highland clan chiefs to pledge allegiance. All complied—except for one, Alistair McIain of the Clan McDonald, whose journey to deliver the oath was delayed by storm. Though the Fort William officer understood, he lacked the authority to grant clemency, and the Secretary of State, John Dalrymple, used this as an excuse to exact brutal punishment. The Campbells, loyal to the Crown, arrived under the guise of friendship, requested and shared Highland hospitality of the McDonalds for three days—and then, under royal command, turned on their hosts. On the morning of 13 February 1692, they slaughtered the McDonalds in their sleep. The betrayal left a deep scar on Highland memory; even now, some McDonalds jokingly say they won’t serve Campbells soup.

From there, we journeyed through Fort William, lying in the shadow of mighty Ben Nevis—the tallest mountain in the British Isles at 1,344 metres. Towering above the town, its presence is both humbling and magnetic, a sentinel over the West Highlands.

As the road carried us along the Great Glen, a geological fault line carved by tectonic forces, we paused at one of Scotland’s most poignant sites: the Commando Memorial near Spean Bridge. Erected in 1952, the monument honours the elite forces who trained in this harsh terrain during World War II. The surrounding hills served as the training ground for British Commandos preparing for operations in Europe. Today, the statue of three commandos gazing toward Ben Nevis stands not just as a tribute to military courage, but as a reminder of endurance, sacrifice, and resilience forged in the wilds of the Highlands.

Later that afternoon, we made a stop at the utterly iconic Eilean Donan Castle—a scene so cinematic it's been featured in everything from Highlander to James Bond. Perched on a tidal island where three lochs meet (Loch Duich, Loch Long, and Loch Alsh), the castle is one of Scotland’s most photographed and romanticised landmarks. Originally built in the 13th century as a defence against Viking incursions, Eilean Donan has a long and storied past. It became a stronghold of the Mackenzie and MacRae clans, withstanding centuries of conflict until it was destroyed during the Jacobite risings in 1719. For nearly 200 years it lay in ruin—until Lieutenant Colonel John MacRae-Gilstrap bought and lovingly restored it in the early 20th century. Now, walking across its arched stone bridge, you can feel the weight of history in its thick walls and sweeping views—a perfect Highland epilogue to a day steeped in beauty, betrayal, and resilience. 

By late afternoon, we arrived at Balmacara, just east of the Isle of Skye—its dramatic beauty hinting at the wonders yet to come. But that’s for tomorrow. For now, the spirit of Glencoe lingers, both mournful and magnificent, etched into the heart of the Highlands.

**Day 4 – Legends and Landscapes on the “Misty” Isle of Skye**

Today’s journey took us deep into the heart of the Isle of Skye, a land where myth, history, and drama meet. Known in Gaelic as Eilean a’ Cheò – the Misty Isle – Skye spans roughly 1,656 square kilometres and is home to just over 10,000 residents. Thank you Wiki! 

Despite its remote feel, it’s easily accessible via the Skye Bridge or by ferry, each offering stunning entry points to this magical island. I’ve done both and love each equally. Just because it has a bridge, it's still an island so don't rile up the locals by saying it's not :-)

We began by exploring the island’s most defining feature – the Cuillin mountain ranges. Formed 65 million years ago by intense volcanic activity, they are divided into the smoother, weathered Red Cuillin and the razor-edged Black Cuillin. The latter is home to eleven Munros and considered the most technical climbing in the UK. To complete all eleven in a single push is a formidable challenge, taking up to 20 hours for even the most experienced mountaineers.

From here, we head south to the quiet hamlet of Elgol, where a drive through the dramatic Red Cuillin opens to breathtaking coastal views. On clear days, you may catch a glimpse across Loch Scavaig to the still waters of Loch Coruisk, a place once described by Sir Walter Scott as offering “a scene so wild and so beautiful.”

After a hearty lunch in Portree – the island’s colourful capital – we set off around the Trotternish Peninsula. This geologically active region is famed for its surreal rock formations and landslip landscapes. We pause to take in the haunting beauty of the towering Old Man of Storr before reaching one of Skye’s natural showstoppers: Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. Here, basalt columns shaped like pleats in a kilt tower above the sea, while a sheer waterfall tumbles 60 metres into the Sound of Raasay below.

Skye’s sense of story is never far away. At Kilmuir, we paid our respects at the grave of Flora MacDonald – the woman who famously helped Bonnie Prince Charlie escape Scotland after the failed Jacobite uprising of 1745. Her final resting place is marked by a tall Celtic cross, and the surrounding landscape speaks to both sorrow and resilience.

Nearby, we saw the preserved blackhouse settlement – a poignant reminder of the island’s rural past. These low-slung stone dwellings, once common across the Highlands, housed families and livestock under a shared roof. The blackhouses offer a glimpse into the daily life of Skye’s crofting communities, where survival depended on skill, strength, and strong community ties.

As the light fades, Highland cows (Hectors Hairy Coos!) graze peacefully nearby – icons of the Scottish countryside. With their long fringes and gentle temperaments, these hardy beasts date back to the 6th century and were once considered so valuable they were used as currency.

The Isle of Skye, with its raw beauty and layered history, leaves an imprint on the soul. Day Four of my trip offered a profound connection to both the land and the legends that have shaped this storied isle.

Just bliss. 

**Day 5 - From Balmacara to Inverness – Castles, Legends, and Loch Ness Mysteries**

Today’s journey from Balmacara to Inverness was filled with breathtaking Highland scenery and mythical tales. We began the day with a stop above Eilean Donan Castle, one of Scotland’s most photographed landmarks. Perched where three sea lochs meet—Loch Duich, Loch Long, and Loch Alsh—the castle offers dramatic views that are even more striking from above. It’s easy to see why this location is a favourite for film scenes and wedding photos alike. If you have a spare $96,000. A great deal, surely?

Heading east, we travelled along the stunning shores of Loch Duich, with the imposing Five Sisters of Kintail rising in the distance. The drive offers a perfect mix of natural beauty and Highland legend as we made our way toward Loch Ness, perhaps the most famous body of water in the world. At 25 miles long and plunging to depths of 950 feet, Loch Ness contains more freshwater than all the lakes in England and Wales combined. It’s also home to an abundance of fish—and, some say, something much larger.

Of course, no visit to Loch Ness would be complete without trying to spot “Nessie”, the elusive Loch Ness Monster. The legend dates back to the 6th century, when St Columba is said to have saved a man from a "water beast" in the River Ness. More recently, in the 20th century, sightings surged—particularly in the 1920s, around the time a local circus owner was reported to have washed his elephants in the loch, potentially fuelling the monster myth.

Scientific investigations into Nessie have been extensive. Notably, Professor Neil Gemmell and teams of researchers, including Danish students, have conducted DNA surveys of the loch’s waters. The results revealed species such as sturgeon and large eels—uncommon in other Scottish waters—and no signs of a prehistoric plesiosaur. Still, sonar-equipped boats and numerous studies continue to explore the loch’s mysteries. Interestingly, the loch’s deep, steeply sloped floor creates various underwater ledges and cliffs, adding to the enigma.

Beyond the folklore, Loch Ness has a significant economic impact, generating more than £10 million annually for the local economy through tourism, boat tours, and related attractions. As we travelled north along the Great Glen, passing the ruins of Urquhart Castle perched dramatically above the water, the scale and mystery of Loch Ness lingered with us all the way to Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, where we arrived in the early evening—ready for a rest and perhaps still scanning the water for a final glimpse of Nessie.

 **Day 6 - Inverness to Kirkwall – Across Time and Tides**

Today began with a grey drizzle in Inverness—far from the heatwave I was promised—but somehow it suited the landscape. The brooding sky cast a fitting backdrop as I travelled north from the "Capital of the Highlands," leaving behind city comforts and heading into some of Scotland’s most storied and starkly beautiful terrain.

The journey carried me over the Black Isle and into Sutherland, a region whose natural beauty belies a dark past. Just beyond the village of Golspie stands Dunrobin Castle, seat of the Dukes of Sutherland.  Dunrobin is impressive structure of turrets and manicured gardens, it represents a legacy of wealth built, in part, on the Highland Clearances. 

Over a span of 150 years, landlords like the Sutherlands forcibly evicted tens of thousands of Highlanders from their ancestral homes. Driven by a desire for more profitable sheep farming, these clearances saw nearly a third of Scotland’s population emigrate—many to eastern Canada and the United States. Emigrate may be a kind word to use, there was a lot of coercion involved.  Today, over 40 million people around the world claim Scottish ancestry, their roots tied to these very hills and glens.

Then from the charming little town of Dunbeath with its seafood shack (go the lobster roll)  to the windswept coast of John o' Groats, the landscape becomes increasingly wild. Here, the land narrows and you sense you're reaching the edge of the world. Just a short drive on to Gills Bay, and it’s time to board the ferry across the Pentland Firth—a narrow but notoriously powerful stretch of sea that divides mainland Scotland from the Orkney Islands. The crossing takes around an hour, with glimpses of sea stacks, seabirds, and the first low-lying isles on the horizon.

On Orkney, I was struck immediately by the contrast: treeless, flat, and exposed, yet holding centuries of mystery. Our drive took us past the poignant Italian Chapel, crafted lovingly by Italian POWs during WWII using scrap materials and their unshaken spirit. It’s a symbol of resilience and hope in a windswept land.  Looking forward to seeing this in a few days.  From there, we crossed the Churchill Barriers, causeways built to defend the natural harbour of Scapa Flow, and wound our way toward Kirkwall, the island’s capital and a former Viking stronghold.

Kirkwall is home to the magnificent St Magnus Cathedral, its red sandstone rising proudly over narrow lanes steeped in Norse and Scottish history. The Orkney archipelago itself is a mosaic of over 70 islands—only about 20 inhabited—shaped by millennia of geology, myth, and migration. From Neolithic sites older than the Pyramids to remnants of wartime occupation, Orkney's layered past is as deep and wide as the firth I crossed to get here.

This place feels different. Ancient. Removed. Like it’s been waiting. For me! Your little blonde heroine!

**Day 7: Stones, Sea and Secrets – Orkney’s Ancient Story**

Orkney doesn’t whisper its history—it sings it on the wind, carves it in stone, and roars it through its cliffs and coastlines. Today’s journey was one of powerful contrast: from the stillness of Neolithic stones to the fury of the sea on red sandstone cliffs.

We began at the Standing Stones of Stenness, one of the oldest stone circles in Britain. Towering and slender, these stones predate even the more famous circles to the south and are believed to have held ceremonial importance for early inhabitants. There’s something reverent about the space—standing among them, you feel both very small and deeply connected to those who came before.

A short distance away is the brooding Maeshowe, a 5,000-year-old chambered tomb perfectly aligned with the setting sun on the winter solstice. Entering the narrow passage, carved directly into the hillside, you emerge into a space not only shaped by Neolithic hands but later graffitied by 12th-century Vikings. The runes they scratched into the stone walls—some poetic, some crude—are one of the largest and most significant collections of Norse inscriptions found anywhere in the world.

From there, we moved to Skara Brae, a Neolithic village uncovered by a brutal storm in 1850. It was like stepping into someone’s home, abandoned but preserved in time. Stone beds, hearths, and cupboards remain—functional and familiar, yet impossibly old. The reconstructed house beside the site gives a tactile sense of how these early Orcadians lived, sheltered from the harsh elements. It raises as many questions as it answers: Who were these people? What language did they speak? And why did their settlement fall silent more than 4,500 years ago?

Next, we made our way to the dramatic Yesnaby Cliffs, where the Atlantic slams into sheer red sandstone faces with relentless force. The wind howled, seabirds wheeled above, and the rock beneath our feet bore the weight of eons. It was a striking contrast to the calm order of the Neolithic sites—a vivid reminder of nature’s power here on the edge of the world.

Not far off, we visited the mystical Ring of Brodgar, a vast stone circle set between two lochs. Its scale is staggering, its purpose still debated—ritual, gathering place, astronomical calendar? Whatever the reason, the energy here is unmistakable.

Our final stop was the Brough of Birsay, a tidal island accessible only at low tide. Once a Pictish and Norse settlement, it’s now a windswept archaeological site with stunning views out to sea. Walking its narrow causeway as the tide receded felt like crossing into another world—one that has witnessed centuries of shifting people, beliefs, and cultures.

Today, Orkney revealed its soul through stone, sea and silence. And in that silence, echoes of ancient voices remain—waiting patiently to be heard.  And if they can be heard above my talking and laughter.....all power to them.

**Day 8 - Journey Across the Edge of Scotland — From Orkney to Ullapool**

After a relaxed start to the day, our farewell to Orkney began with one final dash—up to the Wideford Hill viewpoint. The panoramic views reminded us just how unique these islands are, dotted with history and wrapped in nature’s quiet majesty.

Next, we visited Highland Park Distillery, established in 1789, the oldest working distillery in Orkney. That year marked a turning point in whisky history—the legalisation of distilling brought with it the approval of Customs and Excise and Highland Park became one of the few distilleries to operate with certification and pride. Its windswept location and peat-rich water give it a distinct character that continues to charm whisky lovers around the world.

From there, we travelled to one of the most moving sites on Orkney: the Italian Chapel. Built by Italian prisoners of war during WWII, this extraordinary place is a symbol of resilience and beauty created in the harshest of times. Among its current contributors is Alesandro Papa, a craftsman who now restores works at the Vatican, including the Sistine Chapel—a connection that somehow makes the painted interior feel even more divine. The chapel is a poignant legacy of Orkney’s role in global conflict and reconciliation.

A brief trip to the harbour signalled our departure, and soon we were sailing Viking waters back to the mainland. As we disembarked, the road west opened up into one of the wildest and most scenic stretches of the NC500 route. We passed the dramatic silhouettes of Ben Loyal and Ben Hope, mountains that watch over this land like ancient guardians.

A peaceful stop at Tongue, where we had lunch by the causeway, gave us a moment to soak in the views—golden sands meeting rocky coastline, where land and sea battle for dominance.

Next, we made a swift descent into the mysterious Smoo Cave, tucked into the limestone cliffs near Durness. Our visit was more mission than meander—a 34-minute sprint that included descending and climbing back out via the famously steep stairs (some of which were practically waist-height for someone my size!). Still, the echoes of water crashing into the underground chambers made every step worthwhile.

From Durness through Sango Sands, we turned south and the landscape shifted dramatically. The smoother contours of the north gave way to the dramatic wilderness of the Assynt region—all jagged peaks, ancient slate, and harsh beauty. This stretch is where the Highlands feel truly untamed. The roads here wind past clear rocky streams, the kind I’ve always dreamed of living beside—perhaps in a centuries-old stone cottage with a water wheel, a place once full of life and work, now a potential de Winton haven. But alas none was seen!

As we pressed further, we reached Kylesku, home to one of the UK’s highest waterfalls. The raw power and serene surroundings make this spot a show-stopper for anyone travelling the west coast.

Our geology fix came at Knockan Crag, where you stand atop some of the oldest rocks in Europe. It’s no wonder professors and students from across the globe come here—this place is a lesson in Earth’s story, laid bare in stone.

And finally, a visit to the haunting ruins of Ardvreck Castle, standing sentinel over Loch Assynt. Built in the 15th century, it was once home to the powerful MacLeod Clan. Legend says the clan chief built a separate home across the loch for his wife, and standing there it’s easy to see why—there's nowhere more picturesque to place a house than by these still, ancient waters.

Our day ended in Ullapool, a postcard-perfect fishing village on Loch Broom, with its whitewashed buildings and quiet harbour. It’s a fitting place to spend our last night on tour—nestled at the edge of land and sea, where the wildness of Scotland lingers in every breeze. 

**Day 9: History, Highland Scenery & a Dram of Whisky**

Our final day began with a visit to the dramatic Corrieshalloch Gorge, a narrow box canyon where the River Droma plunges 60 metres into a natural chasm. This stunning location is part of one of Scotland’s smallest National Nature Reserves and offers spectacular views and a short, invigorating walk.

From there, we travelled east to the Culloden Battlefield, the site of the last hand-to-hand battle fought on British soil. On 16 April 1746, the Jacobite forces, led by Bonnie Prince Charlie, were defeated by the Duke of Cumberland’s government army. Though the battle lasted less than an hour, it marked a turning point in Scottish and British history.

Culloden was not only the end of the Jacobite uprising but also the beginning of a profound cultural shift in the Highlands. In the aftermath, many Jacobite prisoners were deported to plantations in North America and the Caribbean. Later, during the Highland Clearances (1770–1850), thousands more were forcibly evicted as traditional clan systems dissolved and land was repurposed for large-scale sheep farming.

Ironically, the Highlands later became a vital recruitment ground for the British Army. Within ten years of Culloden, Highlanders were serving across the globe, and Fort George, just miles from the battlefield, was established to secure government control of the region. Many Highland veterans settled abroad or returned home with pensions, becoming respected leaders in their communities.

After a reflective visit, we departed Culloden just after 1:30 pm, heading south with a quiet sense of reverence.

Our next stop was Clava Cairns, a prehistoric burial site dating back over 4,000 years. This ancient site of standing stones and chambered tombs gained modern fame as the inspiration for the time-travel portal in Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander series, drawing fans from around the world.

We then visited the Dalwhinnie Distillery, one of Scotland’s highest and most remote whisky distilleries. Nestled in the Cairngorms, Dalwhinnie has been producing its smooth, honeyed single malt since 1897. Its Highland location and access to clean spring water and peat from the surrounding bogs make it a unique and memorable tasting experience.

Our journey continued southbound on the A9, with a brief look at Dunkeld, a picturesque town with early Christian ties—St. Columba is said to have visited here—and links to the Stone of Destiny, the legendary coronation stone of Scottish kings.

As we crossed the Forth Road Bridge and arrived back in Edinburgh, we passed near Dunsinane Hill, the fabled site from Macbeth, where "Birnam Wood" was said to march—bringing Shakespeare’s prophecy to life in the minds of all literary lovers aboard.

And that concludes this set of adventures - or so I thought....

It's been a big trip with scenic and information overload but to see sites around my homeland that pre-dates the pyramids was superb.  Now I need another holiday.