I left the UK almost three decades ago, far too young and far too distracted to give Europe the attention it deserved. So the Danube, Budapest, and the Spanish Riding School in Vienna sat on my lifelong “don’t you dare forget this” list.
When I stumbled across an Intrepid itinerary that ticked every one of those boxes, I damn near squealed. Of course I booked it. And naturally, the whole adventure began the morning after a cocktail party on HMS Victory, surrounded by a lively knot of old Royal Navy air traffickers who should absolutely know better—but never do.
My motto....I burn my candle at both ends....
Ever fancy touring Europe and feel you missed out on a gap year? Yeah, me too. So having semi-retired last year, I decided to spend as much of 2024 as I could travelling. And here is my next trip; two weeks in Europe followed by two weeks in the Balkans.
I hope you enjoy my adventure.
Photo courtesy of Intrepid Travel - my hosts for the trip
Getting to Vienna
Right cats and kittens here I am.
After a sleepy trip up to the smoke, some serious head nodding in the lounge, a rapid power nap on the plane, suddenly I was in Austria.
Now the joining instructions have details of trains and a Girls Travel FaceTube page provided other advice so I was set to give pubic transport a red hot go.
A €4 ticket at the office adjacent to a small ramp, some people milling around, a train within 30 seconds and I was off. Fifteen minutes later, seven stops behind me, and I was in the center of Vienna. Bargain.
It took about two minutes to get my bearings and off I went on the 400m walking trip to the hotel. The hardest part of the whole things is getting your bearings when exiting the station.
About Austria
Austria sits at the crossroads of Europe, and it’s spent most of its history acting like it.
For centuries it was the beating heart of the Habsburg Empire, a sprawling, multilingual beast that shaped half the continent’s politics, culture, and drama. Vienna grew into a capital of music, ideas, and imperial swagger—Mozart, Freud, Klimt, pastries that really shouldn’t be legal.
The empire eventually crumbled after WWI, leaving modern Austria smaller, calmer, and very good at leaning into its strengths: alpine grandeur, impeccable coffeehouses, and a national talent for turning history, art, and scenery into something disarmingly elegant. It’s a country that knows exactly what it’s about—and makes no apology for showing off a little.
Vienna
Magdas Hotel is a Social Hub. Employees are mainly refugees, most stuff, including furniture is repurposed (don't be horrified, you wouldn't know it), food is all healthy and organic and everything that's done has a focus on sustainability!
And the place is fabulous! Facilities are amazing. Rooms are well laid out and spotless. And one thing I really love, separate loo and shower!
Not wanting to fall asleep at 1.30 yesterday, I checked in and showered. All through the airport and on the train, I thought people around me were a bit smelly, turns out it was me! Okay, well - I had been travelling overnight!
Freshly scrubbed and with clean clothes - I set about exploring the city. Man, I was going to kill it today, like those old days of walking miles, hours ahead and behind; I had a plan.
Again, again, I say, first casualty of war is the plan. And mine didn't survive first contact.
Vienna was enjoying the hottest day this year. It was mid 30s with rotten humidity! Rotten. I did about 3kms and retreated back to the hotel in defeat, where another shower and a change of under crackers was needed. Badly needed.
We had our joining meeting and due to two nights of limited sleep (Board Meeting on line Thu night) and I retired injured to the room to manage a very acceptable 10 hours sleep. Almost unheard of.
Today, well I've had an awesome day. 18,000 steps by 2pm and then back to the hotel for a quick recharge.
Then I hit public transport this afternoon to visit some of the splendor that is Vienna.
I'll say now that over the last 24 hours, I have muttered OMG more times than I have in my 41 year life (see what I did there? I took of the school years!)
But Vienna. Okay, here goes.
2.2m people live here
One of nine federal states in Austria.
Ruling family, well their strategy for world domination was different. Marry into every main Royal/ruling family. This is the Habsburg Empire
2000 years ago, it was a Roman settlement - but wasn't most of Europe? Then due to population increase, the old city walls were removed 1853 and with space now available they put all the new Govt buildings in.
Royals were abolished in 1918 and now it's a republic. There are still descendants and they aren't allowed to be in politics etc They've sort of been banished to keep a low profile! I think there could be a lesson here.
The city is absolutely surrounded by parks, and I'd you were coming here, don't do a Hop On Hop Off tour, buy a 1 or 2 day pass and wing it. It took me about 20 mins to figure out the transport system and that was mainly because I couldn't read the literature with my contact lenses in!
So my afternoon today was splendid. I did a no map, set your sail where the wind takes you, trust me tour. Just divine with lots of OMGs.
This is just the start but I love Vienna.
Things to visit
Spanish Riding School (if it's not summer, so closed)
Schoenbrunn Palace
Plague Victim Memorial
St Peters Cathedral
National Library
Parliament
Sisi Museum
Museum Totrury
Vienna to Cesky Krumlov
Setting off at 9 am the first half of the journey passed quickly. It's nice to see the same tradition in Austria, where you head into McDonalds for a McPee.
Also a cause of great delight was the discovery of Austrian Aldi, except it's Hofer as the Austrian relationship with the Germans appears similar to the Scots/English.
When we got over the motorway and onto the side roads, the scenery was fabulous! I had to stop myself singing "Hi on the hill was a lonely goat herd.....yodel eh...." But you'll know I'm a bad singer so restrained myself easily!!
Then by midday we were at Cesky Krumlov. Right here in the Czech Republic. Our hotel was right in the middle and called Na Louzi. The facilities were small and basic as you'd expect from a centuries old building, but the experience was priceless.
About Czech Republic
The Czech Republic is the quiet overachiever of Central Europe, though Prague would never let you call it quiet.
For a thousand years this place has been a crossroads of kings, emperors, revolutionaries, and the occasional invading neighbour with poor timing. Bohemia and Moravia built their own distinctive blend of Gothic spires, baroque drama, and beer so good it may as well be a national religion.
The Velvet Revolution in 1989 swept away decades of communist rule with more grace than most countries manage on a good day, and modern Czechia has settled into a confident rhythm—cultured, inventive, a bit mischievous, and completely aware that its capital city is the sort of showstopper that makes visitors consider “accidentally” missing their flight home.
Cesky Krumlov
Now after Vienna, I didn't think I could fall in love more, but it seems my capacity for love is limitless 🤣
Set all around a horseshoe bend on some river, the oldest building in the town was constructed around 1253.
The Schloss started construction in the 1400 and was still going in the 1600s with the addition of the Theatre.
In true de Winton lucky style, I'm two days late for the show! Seems to be a theme here. But things to consider here are:
River Float! Not the long one.....
City’s oldest pharmacy
Old town
Cesky Krumlov Castle
House of Mirrors
Moldavite Museum
Museum Tortury
Anyway, Ive created a reel of photos but here are a few of this amazing town.
P.S. everything aches! Feet. Knees. Hips. So two Ibuprofen and an early night. How the mighty have fallen!! 🤣
Cesky Krumlov to Prague
Well hello boys and girls, cats and kittens!
Today my love affair continues and it's with Prague.
It was with some regret that we left Cesky Krumlov, and I say with some regret as I am no longer a woman who tolerates living in a 400-year-old building with lots of DARK BROWN and more primitive conveniences. But I did an early morning walk to say my farewells and that's that, I suppose!
Now look I'd love to tell you what the three-hour journey entailed, but I reverted to childlike tendencies, and realised that my arse is still connected to my eyes; I sit down and my eyes close! So, three hours passed quickly for me and we were off the bus and on the underground to get to the hotel. Our hotel for Prague was Miss Sophie's Downtown. Right opposite the station, ten minutes walk into the main city, next to a Beer Spa and opposite bus stops to - everywhere!
Prague
Well, Prague maybe isn’t the city of love but it’s certainly a city to love. My time in Prague was as amazing as anticipated. And I love a good public transport system, so I was in my element here. Buy a 1 or 3 day travel pass, public transport is a dawdle and you'll be grateful you did.
As mentioned, my Hotel was central to the city and we walked around the Old Town for what seemed like 32 hours this afternoon. My feet and legs were barking! Everyone else is fine, but seriously four hours on hard cobbled streets....is painful!
However, I covered the Jewish Quarter (ironically where all the designer shops are!!), the Old Town Square, Charles Bridge and did an overview of public transport; something I’ll need when my viewing of the city’s gifts begins in earnest.
Orientation Tour over, we found the museum of S3x machines. I suspected I'd be in website management jail at posting these images but, trust me, it's worth a visit. Be prepared to be shocked and amused and educated.
A river cruise was a must-do and we did an evening dinner one to see the spectacular lights of the city.
It's been interesting to hear some of the opinions from the elderly - who were looked after under the communist government so aren't all in favour of this change!
The split between Czech Republic and Slovakia is known as the Velvet Divorce due to the nature of the separation. I'll be interested to see how Slovakia is doing, whilst Prague is beautiful and is the 5th most visited city in Europe. I can see why; it's beautiful ❤️
Note for folks visiting soon. Everything costs about $20 Aus and the time you’ll need inside varies.
The Magnificent Castle
Museum of Communism
Dancing House
Charles Bridge
Wallenstein garden and palace
Old Jewish Cemetery
Old Town Square
Prazsky Orloj clock
Sex Machines Museum
John Lennon wall
I did have a giggle at the Museum of Communism though. It was a small display, basically 60 small notice boards with writing, admittedly in an eye pleasing space, but at the cost of 380cz. This is more like a good lesson, well learned in Capitalism.
Watch your valuables in both the Old Town Square and Charles Bridge. Two areas known for high crime! 😔
Now in the blink of an eye, it's time to move on and into Poland.
Prague to Wroclaw via The Church of Peace
Czech trains weren't bad. Not sure what I expected but....they were okay. In fact, I go as far as saying they were a thousand times better than that bloody Melbourne to Sydney bone rattler! These bad boys had power, and WiFi!!
Or first stop in Poland was to a Church of Peace., with a final destination at the Hotel B&B Centrum on the main street of Wroclaw; an easy walk into the Town Square and a fabulious shopping centre.
About Poland
Poland is the definition of resilient. Its geographically parked in a spot where history likes to test its patience, yet somehow it keeps standing taller each time.
Medieval kings built a thriving kingdom here, only for the country to be carved up, wiped off the map, reborn, invaded again, and ultimately liberated itself with sheer grit and the kind of determination most nations can only envy. Today it blends gothic old towns, rebuilt-with-love cities like Warsaw, and a cultural streak that runs from Chopin to cutting-edge art.
It’s proud, complex, occasionally stubborn, and absolutely worth the deep dive because every corner feels like it’s carrying a story that refuses to stay quiet.
The Church of Peace
This was one of the first non-Catholic churches built here. At the insistence of the Swedes after the Thirty Year War in the early 1600s. But the rulers of Poland were a little miffed at this request or imposition and made it as hard as possible for them to be built.
Not inside the township, not a church shape, no spire, outside the sound of the town bells, no brick and mortar equivalent, no slate, all sustainable materials such as clay and straw - oh, and it had to be completed within a year.
Well, they did it. In fact they did it in ten months and metaphorically, with bells on!!! Metaphorically as they also weren't allowed a bell tower.
I walked around here also thinking about the Museum of Communism - thinking overall how cruel people are to each other for their own personal advantage. Reading the Communist literature and the oppression, stealing of business and farms etc. you can dress it up as nationalisation for the greater good but it caused food and goods shortages everywhere and the only people that got rich were party members and the illegal economy/ black market businesses.
The things we do to our fellow man. I do appreciate its being looked at in hindsight, however it doesn't make it better.
I head to Auswitz in the next few days so I suspect this feeling will only intensify! It fair makes me shake my head. And I'd do that but I and three others have a cold, courtesy of the bloke in the group, and any shaking of the head at the minute would be like a dog shaking after a swim!!
I'm going to leave this at a comment I found amusing yesterday. Give the communists the Sahara Desert and we'd run out of sand in five years!
Wroclaw
Well isn't this an unknown (to me) gem. It's divine. Big enough to be interesting and small enough to be able to discover it all in a few days. There is also a strange thing happening with bronze gnomes and they are hidden all over the town.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wroclaw_Dwarfs
There is also an area to the north of the city where there is a secret alley of street art. Ruska Street felt a little dodgy tbh so daylight visiting is recommended.
Finally my visit schedule
Old Town Square
Bridge of Penitence
Market Mall
Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island)
Wroclaw University/botanic gardens
Wroclaw is a student town with 650k inhabitants of which there are 150k are students. So there's a shitload of bars. But, I won't be seeing any more on this part of the trip! Because after thirteen hours of exploring, twenty thousand steps, ten trams, six recommended locations, three drinks, four different types of street entertainment and one pizza, I was in bed by 9.30. Again, how the mighty have fallen 😭
Wroclaw to Krakow
Today on the train from Wroclaw to Krakow, it suddenly hit me. I knew something was on my mind and I couldn't place it.
It was the houses.
Austria and the travel in the vicinity of Vienna was as you'd expect in Austria and Switzerland. Those rounded roofs and square type houses. Rolling hills, with these rounded houses dotted around the landscape. I was just waiting on Julie Andrews to burst into song.
But entering and through Czech Republic and now through Poland, it's very....... British like! The land is generally flat, the countryside is green and the house construction, shape and garden conformity is very UK familiar. It's quite comforting.
Today is the start of the second week of the tour and tomorrow is both Auswitz and the salt mines. It will be a big day, I suspect both physically and emotionally. Of course, we often read about these places, the horror and a sense of reverence but it will be humbling to see it.
Krakow accommodation is the spectacular, old, grand, but lift devoid Aparthotel Bastowa. It is close to the station, right on the tram routes, five minutes to the old town center and over a walkthrough underpass that is filled with shops and cafes. Dinner is easy here.
Krakow
Okay, so it's now Krakow, there is a festival on, entertainment to see, food to eat and a town to explore. And, and there is so much people watching to do. Oh yes there is!
This is a two night stop but day one afternoon was an orientation walk, the amazing underground museum, the castle and it's our base for both Auswitz and the Salt mine visits that are part of the Intrepid package. I'll deal with these visits separately but in this amazing city the following is on offer:
Banksy Museum
Kosciuszko Mound
Schindler’s Factory Museum
Wawel Castle
Well wasn't this an unexpected treasure? It's 25 minutes from Krakow and takes 2-3 hours to get through it all, starting with 800 stairs - down!
It's been ongoing for the last 700 years, at one point being the largest source of salt in Poland. It contains 26 shafts and 9 million cm of post excavation voids were drilled. There are a couple of lifts and one is near the most amazing underground cathedral, which is available for wedding - any takers? But I could write about it and miss so much, so here is the website. This place was amazing.
https://www.wieliczka-saltmine.com/
This is one I wouldn't miss!
This was emotional for me but something I wanted to do. It was also the visit and part of the trip that people had the most advice and opinions about.
I considered long and hard whether to include this. I left Auschwitz and phoned an understanding friend as I was a little messy. It made me reflect on my time in the military and some of the places I've been and the things both seen and experienced or endured. I say this not as a comparison, as it never could be, but it caused some reflection for me.
Auschwitz is a very strange place and maybe difficult to deal with for those intelligent, imaginative, and empathetic. A mind to understand the harsh reality of what occurred in that place, a soul to appreciate the depth of it all, and a heart that feels the grief.
Knowing also that despite the horrors that once were, the good human spirit rose above it all and showed true strength and defiance in the face of pure evil…
But some facts that hit me hard
- You start by walking down a modern concrete passageway where the names of those killed are read out. I don't know how long it takes to read the list of 1.1m people
- Birds do fly there now, and they're noisy
- There isn't a feeling of chill or cold, it's a feeling of chill and death
- Unfortunately the reverence is disturbed by the fact there is so many people there, it's like a bloody circus. But I hope they have good intent in learning the sins of the past.
The second half of the visit is to Birkenau, and I said outright that I was done. No more death for me today.
Those who do not learn from the lessons of the past are apt to repeat them.
This is probably why I spent most of my life in the Defence Force, including two years in overseas deployments; doing my very little bit to stop the sins in the future.
But did it make a difference? Afghanistan......
Krakow to the Tatra Mountains, Slovakia
A Flix Bus. A Flix Bus. One of my bucket list items coming true.
I’ve had my eye on a Flix Bus for years, but like everyone COVID. They have an extensive bus network all over Europe and now moving into the US, especially for tourists. Some buses are overnight so travellers on a budget can city hop with an accommodation overhead! I’d be asking ‘what about showers?’ but not my issue. The network also covers point to point travel that the airlines couldn’t possibly service due proximity or the ability to fill seats to a satisfactory capacity, so Flix Bus....
Anyway this was our transport yesterday. And as promised, it was luxurious. I’m not kidding, I was impressed, seats move horizontally to provide space, recline more than airplane and have more leg room than any economy seat! For some of my friends – economy is the area of the plane that you need to turn right to get to; you know, the area that Richard Branson wanted to call Riff Raff! This is where people who pay for their own tickets sit! 🤣
Anyway, three hours later and we were here. Some of us nearly got a full night sleep in!
About Slovakia
Slovakia is the understated sibling in Central Europe—the one that doesn’t shout for attention but ends up stealing the show anyway.
Tucked between big historical heavyweights, it’s spent centuries being traded, merged, and reorganised, yet it’s carved out its own identity with quiet confidence. Medieval castles perch on cliff edges like they’re auditioning for a fantasy series, while the High Tatras deliver alpine scenery that frankly deserves more bragging rights.
Once half of Czechoslovakia, it struck out on its own in 1993 and has been steadily proving it can more than hold its own: modern, grounded, proud of its folklore, and very good at surprising people who arrive expecting “small” and leave wondering why they didn’t stay longer.
Tatra Mountains, Slovakia
Right Slovakia. Well, I had to look up where I was before I started writing this. It’s been a few days and I’m mixing Slovakia with Slovenia, Budapest with Bucharest. I’m just glad I am not driving.
But I’m in the Tatra Mountains, Slovakia. Specifically Tatranska Lominica. Today is no lovely city site seeing, cos this is a one horse town and maybe the horse was shot in the Communist era. There may be zebras though but I’ve yet to see one.
And the rationale for this stop?
Bragging rights to say we’ve been to Slovakia?
A three hour mountain hike.
Now some of the group were so excited about this hike and have been carrying walking poles around for three weeks!! Three weeks of extra weight and kit for a three hour walk and also, when the poles are on offer – free – from the hotel. This town is fully stocked with walking and skiing gear.
I was asked if I was interested and my inside voice was screaming that I’d rather scrub my arse with a Brillo pad!
So I’ve set off, on the train! I love a good train Trust Me Tour.
Today is only to a beautiful lake, where I will have water, in a glass with lemon, maybe a Aperol, a late lunch and some time with an audio book – just contemplating the world!
So greetings from the mountains of Slovakia., which actually turned out to be a fantastic area for skiing. Lots of little towns on my journey with ski lifts and the promise of a power wonderland!
Tatra Mountains, Slovakia to Budapest, Hungary
Here we go, strap in to what will probably be the most boring update ever. Oh yes indeed!
My journey from the Tatra Mountains was by private transport which is about the third time we’ve done it this way. I like the trains and buses – but I’m that type of public transport lunatic! I think it’s the space, the power points, the tray tables and the wi-fi (unless you’re in a train in Australia, in which case you’re stuffed!!). But this was a 14 seat Mercedes Benz minivan and pretty damn comfortable. Enough so that I got in three hours sleep!
It should have been a three-hour trip but with bad traffic (one dodgy old truck on a tricky bit of road), driver mandatory stops etc it was nearly six hours! Ffs .. but I’m on holiday so who cares about a couple of extra minutes?
One last comment I’ll make on Slovakia – the roads were amazing, if the F1 between SYD and Newie was similar to this, I’d think my life perfect!! But the mountainous scenery was also spectacular. For those that still ski in Europe, this looked like an extensive, well-maintained set of ski resorts as mentioned in the Tatra section!! Worth considering.
So six hours and a nap – and here we are – Budapest. Somewhere I’ve always dreamed about.
About Hungary
Hungary is the wildcard of Central Europe; the one with the bold personality, the complicated past, and the flair for making everything feel a bit larger than life.
Its story swings from Magyar horsemen thundering across the plains to the grandeur of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, followed by uprisings, occupations, and a stubborn streak that never quite bowed to anyone.
Budapest reflects all of it: twin cities fused into one showstopper of thermal baths, stately boulevards, and a skyline that knows it’s photogenic. Modern Hungary is proud, fiery, and fiercely itself—rich food, rich history, and a sense of drama that keeps you on your toes in the best way.
Budapest, Hungary
Scream, now I am in Budapest at the City Hotel about 10 minutes’ walk to everything!!
We arrived at around 1.30 and to 40 deg heat, so left the orientation walk until 6pm.
With a few hours to spare, I went in search of a nail salon as I was getting to a critical stage of nail care. I found four. But they either didn’t have time or just didn’t want the discomfort of working on someone they couldn’t really talk to. To be fair, they don’t know me so don’t realise that with drawing and interpretive dance, I can talk to anyone!!
Budapest is spectacular. The city, the river, the buildings, the sense of history. It’s amazing – just not the nail salons! But that match hasn’t been fully played yet.
On our first night we found an amazing roof top bar and I posted some photos in the reel. Spectacular views, and even better Pina Colada!! It was on the top floor of a hotel very near the center of the town, behind the American Embassy and well worth a visit.
So yesterday I was at breakfast at the opening time of 7.30 and by 8.50 I’d hijacked the Hop On Hop Off bus at it’s parking point before the first stop of the day and route, and was ready to explore. And so I did.
This is the only time I invested at a HOHO bus and it was due to the sights in Budapest being quite far apart. Here it also includes an hour river cruise – even more pleasure and beauty.
I saw Operas, Museums, Parliament House from the river boat ....and was turned away at the Marriott Hotel outdoor bar when I wanted a drink. I am not kidding – like one Aperol Spritz would have killed them.
Wandering around our hood after dinner on my own little trust me tour of the streets I found all the designer shops, some amazing alleyways and a film being made! This city is divine.
What I found even more diving was the laundry! There is an automated shop where you can pay – via an App, or with the automatic machine in the shop. It’s pretty efficient. It’s all connected to central programming machines and your phone, with Wi-Fi in the shop. Of course it is. Efficiency.
Post washing was another public transport ticket and more city exploring. And I’m even more excited – mainly about these laundry machines but ...
My final day here was a mandatory spa visit. Easy public transport and some fan girl thing happening with the stations, saw me at the Gellert Spa. It's old to be sure, but the extent of this place and all the pools, treatment areas etc - fabulous!
With this post, I am including only two photos up front so they don’t get lost. This is a memorial along the bank of the Danube about those shot and dropped into the river, and like Auschwitz, should never be forgotten. 💖
Some things I hit on my tour....
Central Market Hall
Gellert Hill Cave
Gellert Spa
Citadella/park
Buda Castle
Varkert Bazar
Church of Our Lady of Buda Castle
Szechenyi Bridge
St Istvan’s Basilica
Opera House
Soviet War Memorial
Parliament House tour
Hungarian National Museum
In Budapest, I swapped trips and started my adventure into the Balkans - see my next travel page.