Africa: A Continent That Calls You Back

My love affair with Africa didn’t begin with a grand plan – like many, it started with Egypt. The timeless gaze of the Sphinx, the chaos of Cairo, the silent drift along the Nile. It left an impression, but it was only the beginning. Years later, I returned to explore the vibrant chaos of Morocco with it's many markets and even more donkeys, and once again to Egypt. But I wasn’t just intrigued; I was hooked. Africa was my drug of choice and it's one I have never been able to overcome, despite lots of other world experiences. 

Africa really does have a pull like no other. In 2006, I spent nearly a year in Sudan, navigating aviation safety in a world that was dusty, raw, and deeply real. A short detour to Uganda opened up glimpses of the land that once captured Livingston’s heart – and even more intriguingly, where General de Winton once walked. It stirred something ancient, a sense of history and legacy, both personal and global. But it wasn’t enough. Not nearly enough. 

So, on leave from Afghanistan in 2013, I set out again, despite the horror of the 2* General who was in charge of the Australian Contingent – this time for Tanzania and Zanzibar via Kenya. I skirted the base of Kilimanjaro, drifted through the Serengeti, and peered into the vast majesty of the Ngorongoro Crater. The rhythm of Africa was under my skin by then. A few months later, I was winding through Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa. Weeks long overland trips led to lion parks, mokoro rides in the Okavango Delta, sunsets over Namibia’s towering dunes, and finally through South Africa’s lush vineyards and into Cape Town at the foot of Table Mountain and across from Robben Island.  Just in time to witness a nation mourning the passing of Nelson Mandela. 

What drew me to Africa in the first place? 

Truthfully – Wilbur Smith. 

His novels lit a fire of imagination, igniting images of rivers teeming with hippos, desert winds sweeping through forgotten kingdoms, and wild lands filled with danger and beauty. That childhood sense of adventure stayed with me, and Africa gave it shape. And heck, his books were far easier than those of Tom Clancy and a small step up from Enid Blyton and the Famous Five - so who could blame these magnificent works for catching my imagination? 

Africa. It's a place that constantly reminds you that life is vast, unpredictable, and while I didn’t ride an elephant into battle (yet), I’ve been chasing that wild-hearted magic ever since. Africa didn’t just get under my skin – it moved in, made a cuppa, and told me to pack a bag. Again. and staggeringly beautiful.

Oh hello Africa. October 2009 and after a few weeks in the US, some time in London and sleeping overnight on the floor of Heathrow Airport, I finally arrived at the next destination in my Round the World in 80 Bars Tour. I stepped onto Moroccan soil and specifically into Tangier to begin this country experience.

Note one - this was the start of my carry on consideration as I landed without luggage - for three days. Thankfully I packed a rucksack with about a weeks worth of clothes!

For those that know Morocco, you'll know there is a souk (market) in every town and some are bigger than others. Fez was huge but Tangier is no slouch in the market size game - and my hotel was at the far side of it. Right through the souk every time I wanted to go anywhere.  And my tour wasn't starting for three days, so I had some time to make friends. And make friends I did. When our tour started our guide took the group on a walk through the market and we followed along like little sheep. Many of the others, newly arrived, were terrified of getting lost. But not this little blonde heroine. I was three days ahead and best friends with every second stall holder. Hey, Scotland - how much longer? They would shout as we passed. The Guide was suitably perplexed at this familiarity, but it's all in a days work.

This magnificent trip took us to the blue painted town on Chefchaouen, into the amazing souks of Fez, onto the Capital Rabat, by the water and my favourite town before heading south to Casablanca - home of Ricks Bar - and finally onto Marrakech.  This was a divine experience.

Note two - find out if you're allergic to henna before embarking on a full shoulder henna tattoo. By day three it looked like a piece of body art that was done with a burning iron! Not fun and hard to keep clean.

From Marrakech - I had a 6am flight to Cairo. And my adventure continued.

It was with some trepidation and worry that I landed back in Egypt. I had been there before on a Nile cruise and swore never again. But here I was and I wanted to see Alexandria.

About a month before departure, the wheels fell off and that tour was cancelled, so the tour company swapped me onto one through the Sinai.  As Sinai was still contested territory and I was still a Defence member, I wasn't allowed to go there. It was forbidden to enter anywhere that was declared a conflict zone.

What was I to do? My flights were all in place. I was scheduled in and out of Cairo. My dates were firm. Quandry.

My boss was cool. I told him. His response was even cooler... let me know when you enter into Sinai and when you're safely out. Okay - I was going.

So an early morning flight and into Cairo - arriving at the hotel early, I settled in to wait for a check in rather than ditching luggage and setting off alone. Normally it wouldn't bother me but Cairo was just one of those places it didn't feel entirely safe.

The was another organised would and it was great.

We did the Cairo to Aswan overnight train which was surprisingly luxurious, hit all the best places, the Pyramids, the Egyptian Museum, Valley of the Kings, Edfu Temple, Philae Temple, Karnak, Hatshepsut Temple and spent two days on a felucca drifting up the Nile. This was spectacular.

Then we hit Hurghada and some quad bike riding through the desert, before a dive in the Blue Hole and onto Mount Sinai and a walk up the Mountain with it's 999 last stone block steps to witness a truly spectacular sunset. Then came the terrifying climb down the 999 large stone blocks before darkness set in - and 5 kms still to walk. 

This trip once again changed my views on Egypt and the three weeks spent here were amazing. Simply amazing. 

Arriving back in Cairo for out last night we celebrated on a river boat restaurant, before a few of us hit some local riverside, locals hangouts. We were determined to experience every part of this adventure and it was a very tired girl that got on the BA flight early the following morning. 

In 2005 the Australian Defence Force was requested to provide Staff Officers as a contribution to the United Nations Mission in Sudan (UNMIS), I deployed on the third rotation. 

Embarking on a journey inspired by the vivid imagery of a Wilbur Smith novel, I was fueled by an insatiable desire to explore the heart of Africa, particularly the city of Khartoum and the mesmerizing confluence of the Blue and White Niles. 

Drawn by the allure of Sudan's rich history, diverse culture, I saw this deployment as more than just a mere adventure—it's was an opportunity for the experience of a lifetime. With each page turned and every word absorbed, I envisioned myself immersed in the tapestry of Sudanese life, eager to witness firsthand the convergence of ancient traditions and modern realities. This journey wasn't just about sightseeing; it was about delving into the essence of Africa, embracing its complexities, seeing what was once part of the British Empire, what has been fought over for years, decades, centuries and forging unforgettable memories that resonated within me long after I returned home.

I loved the experiences during my time as the United Nations, Aviation Safety Officer in 2006.  I visited nearly every region and every 'major'airport in Sudan. There is a much large story here and that will be part of a book I plan to write in the next two years, but it was an amazing experience and allowed me the ability to travel down into Uganda. A two for one deal. What respectable Scottish woman doesn't like that?

We can have three days in Uganda, Kristie said. Friday and Saturday are holidays, Sunday was some other day off event and then there may have been something on Monday, so off we went. 

We didn't see much of Uganda to be honest. The airport, the UN holding camp for logistics and the road to Entebbe from a taxi window.

But we found de Winton Road and an Irish Bar - so if my life wasn't already complete, there was a shoe shop and some lime green wedges that I simply couldn't live without. Who would have thought it? Shoe shopping in Entebbe!

In May 2013, during a deployment hiatus from my service in Afghanistan, I met up with my friend Kristie, for a reunion adventure in East Africa. Kristie and I had served together in Sudan for nine months and were eager to reconnect, not only with each other, but with Africa itself. One of our last adventures had been an alternative Raid on Entebbe and we were still laughing about it seven years later.

We met at Dubai Airport at 6am the first morning of our trip. Kristie from Australia and me from the ADF base an hour away. She was waiting for me at the top of the stairs and we made short work of heading to the Emirates Lounge (thank you Qantas FF Platinum!) where we absolutely hooked into the bubbles. Officially, I wasn’t allowed to drink alcohol on my ‘travel day’ so you won’t see any photos with me and booze. But suffice to say, Kristie helped me into my seat on the flight, and I didn’t even stay awake for the taxi part – five months of working my ass off and a few glasses of booze and I was almost unconscious.

Our trip began in Nairobi, where immediately departing the airport we spotted zebras. In fact they were calmly standing on a roundabout in the middle of the road. Gosh we were excited. After reuniting with our friend and other Sudan worker, Trish, we headed off to do some mattress shopping for our upcoming camping adventure followed by a spectacular dinner at a fantastic African Restaurant in town.

We departed Nairobi early the following morning admiring the scenery of this lovely country and crossed into Tanzania, arriving at our destination, Arusha, in the late afternoon.  This is Tanzania’s safari capital, and where we prepared for our few nights excursion to the Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro Crater.

Our Zebras to Zanzibar Reunion – May 2013

We departed Nairobi early morning and crossed into Tanzania, arriving at our destination, Arusha, in the late afternoon.  This is Tanzania’s safari capital, and where we prepared for our few nights excursion to the Serengeti National Park and the Ngorongoro Crater.

Arusha - Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Crater.

We transferred to smaller more ‘game park friendly’ vehicles and drive west across the Great Rift Valley, passing through Mto Wa Mbo (‘mosquito creek’) and entering the Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area. Entering into the Park we drove around the ‘Crater’s rim and down onto the Serengeti plains.

**Note one. When your smaller more ‘game park friendly’ vehicles breaks down and the suspension is buggered, it can be fixed with a lump of wood and a good bang with a mallet!

This is home to an enormous variety of grazing animals, predators, and birdlife. Flatter and larger than the Masai Mara, the Serengeti is huge - the name derives from the Masai word Siringitu - ‘the place where the land moves on forever’.

We did a spectacular game drive to our designated (but unfenced) campsite for the evening where lion and hyena roam nearby for an unforgettable experience

**Note two. When the Japanese leopard print wearing tourist, walks off into the scrub, shout for help – loudly!

We spent full safari days searching for lions, leopards, elephants, zebras and more—Ngorongoro’s volcanic caldera allowed immersive game viewing below its rim, and evenings at camp in the Serengeti were alive with the sounds of wildlife right outside our tents

**Note three. When someone tells you there is a lion right at the side of your tent, leaning on it – believe them and don’t run out to the toilet!

**Note four. When you’re running to the toilet before sunrise, it doesn't matter if you are on the formed pathway, when there is a massive elephant in front of you – your plans for the route to toilet destination may need to change. And all that comes with increased risk!

After a week of overland travel and safari, we travelled down to Dar es Salam and camped on a beachfront site, which redefines your thoughts on what paradise looks like.

**Note five. Despite the guy camped next to you being friendly, deserting your life and job to accompany him on his 12 month lap of Africa isn’t an option. Regardless of how tempting it may sound and how in love with Africa you are.

We ferried across to Zanzibar for seven days of island relaxation. Remembering the obligatory Yellow Fever Certificate – original and no copy allowed.

In Stone Town, we wandered the maze‑like streets, soaked in spice‑market aromas, browsed bazaars, and strolled by the shoreline. We even visited Mercury’s Bar and reveled in the turquoise waters taking a dhow or snorkeling trip.

**Note six. When at the Africa House Hotel, get up to the rooftop bar early for good seating for the sunset cocktails – you may need to consider moving up after breakfast.

The final few days were spent at the all‑inclusive Royal Zanzibar Resort—late‑morning swims, beachside lounging, fresh seafood, cocktails, more cocktails and then more whilst unwinding after our intense safari adventure.

**Note seven. There is such a thing as too many cocktails 😊Or it could have been bad mint in one of those eight mojitos!

This trip marked a special interlude between comrades with Kristie and me, and a return to the continent that first united us. After months away in Afghanistan, our Africa adventure was everything we hoped for—wildebeest and zebra on the plains, Maasai highlands underfoot, and finally, the azure calm of Zanzibar and the all-inclusive RZR. Bliss and a perfect way to end our vacation.

My journey into Zim took a long time and a circuitous route.  Nelson Bay with an overnight drive to Sydney. A 6am Emirates flight into Dubai,  and enduring that 13-14 hours, then a further 8 + hours down into Jo'burg. Arriving at Jo'burg Airport at 10pm wasn't ideal and I was wary of all the stories of South Africa, so selected a hotel near the airport and one that provided transport. It was a nice way to start.

I flew up into Victoria Falls the following morning. Working out what I would need for a visa was the first conundrum, British passport, Australian passport (what's easier), multiple or single entry - big decisions were needed but happy it would be a single entry and I wouldn't be heading over to Zambia, I sorted that one quickly. Exiting the airport, I made my way to accommodation, threw the rucksack somewhere safe and started exploring. Vic Falls isn't a big town and I had plenty of time to get around it and walk up to the falls. I saw Niagra Falls when I was ten, it was impressive and loud, so I was at least prepared for the magnificence that was about to hit me. God it was amazing. The power of the water thrashing down into the Zambezi was spectacular. There are a variety of adventure activities on offer including white water rafting and zip-lining but my doctor warned me, in fact he made me promise that I wouldn't be doing any. My surgery had been long and hard, despite the keyhole approach. There had been significant scarring due to activities after my previous surgery and any repeat would cause further injury and complications down track. No activities for me; walking it was - so I did my fair share. 

Finding a couple of other solo female travellers, it wasn't long before we found a party and the holiday mode really kicked in. There are so many tourists and tourist guides in Vic falls that a party is always easy to find. 

It was a magnificent few days and a great start to my next close encounter with Africa. 

We left Victoria Falls early and with only a short journey left in Zimbabwe we crossed into Botswana heading for Chobe National Park. Chobe would be our first stay on this trip and we had the chance to walk with lions, followed by a magnificent sunset cruise down the Chobe River.

I need to say, I don't enjoy animals in captivity and expect some drugging occurs so they allow people into the enclosure, but sitting next to that lion was incredible. 

Our next destination was Maun and another stay in a camp by the river with an exceptional river restaurant with great facilities. This was to be our base before heading up the Okavango Delta. We spent a few days exploring the network of watery pathways through the delta on guided nature walks, mokoro and boat excursions. For those unaware a mokoro is a wooden canoe equivalent with no support. Paddling for three hours with stomach surgery recently behind you is - challenging.

Once again I found a place in Africa that made me want to give up everything in my Western life and just stay. I wanted to remain there forever. This was the Island Safari Lodge By the River. I wrote in my diary that night that Travel is a drug and Africa is Crack Cocaine. While the distance of time dims that feeling, it will never ever leave me. 

Well, well, well Namibia, what a beautiful country.  

Crossing over the border into Namibia was eye opening. The German influence and whatever ruling government has been in situ since has certainly done a wonderful job of infrastructure. This country felt like a mini Europe in Africa with it's Germanic shops, Dutch-like accents and as I mentioned, great infrastructure. This wasn't a country of small African Towns, this was a country of Western Towns and Village - but all under an African sun. It was bliss.....

But our first destination was Etosha National Park and here we spent two days exploring the best game reserve in Namibia - again in the search for lions, elephants and on more game drives. It's a wildlife spotters dream.

This was followed by a few days in Swakopmund and one of the charming German colonial towns I was admiring more and more every day.

Our next few stops were the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Where like kids we screamed and scrambled up the giant dunes of Sossusvlei, explore Deadvlei and hike through the Sesriem Canyon. It was then onto Fish River Canyon, the world's second largest canyon, and another truly magnificent sight.  One of the more surprising and delightful things was the campsite at Fish River Canyon, with its memorabilia filled restaurant and bar. Walk inside and immediately transform yourself back to 1950s US - cars, wall coverings, bar tops and music. It was magnificent. 

In early December, we arrived at our destination of South Africa, and I was here for an extra week staying with a lady Kristie and I met in Zanzibar in May.  Some people often promise to visit - but don't. Not me, I do it. 

I landed in Cape Town to the announcement that Nelson Mandela had passed away and here, in Cape Town there were to be large screens erected so the community could get together, watch the ceremony and mourn. 

It was quite the time to visit Robben Island, the great man's prison for many many years.  

My host, Rikki took some time off and drove me around, we visited the southern most point of Africa and also spent some time up in the vineyards. I loved it. Ironically though, it isn't a part of Africa I would return to quickly. Unless it was to drive up the Garden Route and into Mozambique - now that's appealing! 

Farewell for now Africa. Its Dec 2013 and I'm not sure when I'll be back.