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Macedonia and Albania
Hot on the heels of last years amazing vacation throughout Europe and the Balkans, I wanted to come back.
Originally there was a Croatian Cruise planned. Dragging mum, around the islands, visiting Split - but maybe that's next year. Cos it may take me that long to get the old girl to agree to it. So this year is back in the Balkans, starting in Dubrovnik, Croatia, down to Kotor, Montenegro (an area I loved last year) and into Macedonia and Albania, before landing in Greece. Here is my overview for this trip and again, I am excited. More Tito influence, but even more Alexander the Great!
My trip
My trip
Starting back in Dubrovnik and revisiting Kotor was exceptional. But I covered that last year and any photos, I'll add to my Balkans adventure - this page is Macedonia and Albania.
Tito for beginners
Tito for beginners
Tito: the man who defied Stalin and built a country from ashes
In the chaos of WWII, one man stood out in the Balkans — Josip Broz, better known as Tito. While much of Europe was occupied, he led the Partisans, a ragtag but fierce resistance that fought the Nazis, outmaneuvered rivals, and earned Churchill’s backing. By the war’s end, Tito had liberated Yugoslavia largely on his own terms — a rare feat in a continent divided by the Allies and Soviets.
After the war, he stitched together a new Yugoslavia — six republics, many religions, one flag — and told Stalin to shove it when Moscow tried to pull his strings. In 1948, he broke from the Soviet orbit and built his own brand of socialism, independent and proudly neutral.
Tito became the face of the Non-Aligned Movement, rubbing shoulders with world leaders while keeping his patchwork nation together through a mix of charisma, control, and sheer will. For decades, Yugoslavia prospered under his rule — until his death in 1980, when the glue holding it all together began to crack.
A cigar in hand, white uniform gleaming, Tito ruled like a king without a crown — the communist who said no to Stalin and built a country from the ashes of war.
About Albania
Albania has one of Europe’s oldest stories, rooted in the ancient Illyrians and shaped by Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans. It spent most of the 20th century sealed off under one of the harshest communist regimes in the world, only opening to travelers in the 1990s. That isolation preserved a distinct culture: the Kanun code of honor, centuries-old religious coexistence, and a music and food scene that feels both Balkan and uniquely Albanian.
Albania was never part of Yugoslavia. It sat next door, under its own brand of isolationist communism led by Enver Hoxha from 1945 to 1985. Unlike Tito, Hoxha cut ties with almost everyone—first Yugoslavia, then the USSR, then even China—leaving Albania one of the most closed-off states in Europe. So in the Balkan puzzle: Yugoslavia broke into seven states, while Albania remained separate throughout, only opening up after the early 1990s when communism collapsed.
But with a primarily Muslim population, seconded by catholic, and orthodox- religion here has never been a cause for conflict. The people are Albanian first. How great is this?
Tirana is the capital of Albania and its biggest city, but it's still small and compact, with architectural influences from Italy and Turkey. Recently many buildings have been painted to alleviate the Soviet bloc feeling that pervaded. Many upgrades have been made all over town, such as new parks and wide pavements.
Beyond the better-known Riviera, the country hides treasures like the Ottoman-era town of Gjirokastër, the stone beaches of Himarë, the alpine trails of Theth and Valbona, and the ruins of Butrint — a UNESCO site where layers of civilizations still speak.
The road to Tirana
As part of our journey we travelled from Kotor to Tirana (Albania) and, for me, its very exciting to see a new country Another with a long history but this time relatively unknown to tourists by comparison.
As I navigated my case down four flights of stairs and then down the cobbled hill outside our tiny hotel I was a little thankful that it was the last time. Beautiful? Yes, to be sure.
The ability to kill an ankle and even set the most sure-footed off balance? Abso-bloody-lutely.
The road out of Kotor didn't disappoint ether; we did a bit of a climb before the road was sending us 1km through a mountain tunnel.
Suddenly the mountains were behind us and a very new part of the region lay in front. Modern housing, a new chrome and glass industrial area with large format retail and plenty of car showrooms and more importantly, new roads.
It appears the Kotor Municipality are putting their tourist income to good use for the residents.
Or so you'd think, until we pass through Budva 30 minutes later.
Budva is the largest tourist area in Montenegro, where a combination of an influx of Russian money and corrupt local officials have seen an overdevelopment of new, too high, hotels - and a haven for Serbians looking for a party. Whilst some of the old Yugoslav permitted, low rise, sympathetic buikt areas with green space exists, they are few and far between! The illegal concrete hotels dominate, and not one bit od adherence to design and planning guidelines existed.
However, the drive south around the coast was spectacular. Then watching the infrastructure change as we approached Albania and recognised a blended population.
The last part of the journey south into Tirana was inland and whilst not as spectacular as hugging the crystal clear waters of the south Dalmatian Coastline, it was interesting in it's own way!
Maybe it was the fake Midevel Castle, or the Las Vegas motel, the Shitet car sales firm or even the jailhouse looking Gold Coast Club, it all came aith its own story, each fuelling my imagination. Then through the built up area that is inner city Tirana, with the voluminous traffic and combination of waste land and construction.
And the traffic? Oh, the traffic. It's absolute chaos! Thousands of expensive cars trying to overtake and merge like a bad re-run of Wacky Races, and did I say - very expensive - cars, with drivers almost suicidal.
Turns out that driving schools and tests weren't introduced here until the 1990s and it bloody shows.
There's also a large amount of car scrap dealers. Go figure!
Its actually fascinating. It’s oppressive at times. It's certainly fast-paced. Not sure its completely endurable.
Oh, and it turns out Shitet is Sale! Of course it is!
Tirana, Albania
Tirana, Albania
Now Tirana, I'm not sure I like it. Its not a Budapest or a Prague but its extremely lively and friendly. It also has a plethora of men sporting that very musky aftershave that is currently very popular in Australia I don’t enjoy the aroma, it makes me want to stick a Super Size Tampon up each nose! Unfortunately, this post menopause woman doesn’t have any, and unlike Scotland, a magnificent country that was the first in the world to supply them for free!
Our afternoon in Tirana saw us exploring the city further. A market. The square. Viewing the infrastructure (one of which buildings is in the shape of Skanderbeg!) and finally the House of Leaves. The Museum of Secret Surveillance
What it is / history:
The House of Leaves is the former HQ of the Sigurimi, the secret police of Communist Albania.
Originally built in 1931 as a private obstetrics clinic. During WWII, it was used by the Gestapo under German occupation. After the war, the communist regime took it over as a center for interception, espionage, surveillance and political repression. It opened as a museum on 23 May 2017.
Exhibits include listening devices (“bugs”), recordings, documents, stories of ordinary citizens who were spied on, arrested, tortured, etc.
The name “House of Leaves” is metaphorical: “leaves” referring both to the ivy/climbing plants covering the building, and to the “leaves” of files — the secret documents about people.
It shows how private life under communism was deeply surveilled. A word, a meeting, a song could be “enemy action.”
There is strong emphasis on memory: showing artifacts, giving voice to past victims, preserving the trauma so younger generations or visitors can understand what “control” meant.
This carried on until 1991. Yep, 1991.
Kruja, Albania
Kruja, Albania
As an expedition from Tirana, we visited Kruja and the Skanderbeg's Museum/Castle. See below for details of the great man.......
The Skanderbeg Museum is in Krujë Castle, and it's a pretty powerful place if you're into history and heroes.
The building itself is designed to look like a traditional Albanian stone tower, which feels fitting for a national hero. Inside, there are several pavilions that walk you through Skanderbeg’s life: from his Illyrian roots, through medieval principalities, to his fierce resistance against the Ottomans.
On display: replicas of his armour, paintings of his battles, original documents, and artefacts like swords, metalwork, and a striking replica of his famous helmet. The museum is very much a memorial — it’s not just about the myth, but about the real person behind the legend, set in the very fortress that once defended Albanian lands.
Who is Skanderbeg?
Who is Skanderbeg?
Who is Skanderbeg? Well let me tell you, hes more than just an opera by Vivaldi
Skanderbeg’s Life
Who & how he became a legend.
Born Gjergj Kastrioti around 1405 in northern Albania. Son of Gjon Kastrioti, a local Albanian lord.
As was common, he was sent as a hostage (or at least under some obligation) to the Ottoman court in Edirne. There he was trained militarily, served in campaigns, and essentially embedded in the Ottoman system.
In that service he was given the title “Iskander Bey” (“Lord Alexander”) — which turned into Skanderbeg. That “Bey” is the Ottoman noble / military title (“beg”/“bey”).
His Rebellion
In 1443, Skanderbeg deserted the Ottoman army, seized Krujë fortress, and started resisting Ottoman rule.
In 1444, he spearheaded (organized) the League of Lezhë, a coalition of Albanian feudal lords, to unite against the Ottomans.
He led guerrilla warfare, defended key fortresses (like Krujë) through multiple sieges, and inflicted several defeats on Ottoman armies.
Key Battles & Events
Battle of Torvioll (1444) — early victory that boosted his reputation.
Multiple sieges of Krujë: first around 1450; then again in the 1460s. Skanderbeg held off Mehmed II’s forces.
Skanderbeg died in 1468.
After death, the unified resistance weakened. Many of his allies lacked his leadership or coherence. The Ottomans gradually reconquered Albanian territories. Key city Shkodër fell in 1479, and by early 1500s (e.g. capture of Durrës in 1501), most Albanian lands were firmly under Ottoman control.
The road to Berat
Today we set off at the crack of 9am, by which time I was nearly ready for lunch with a beer!
Seriously, a leisurely breakfast and pack before a drive though some typical Albanian countryside Think Italy, or maybe Greece with half-finished buildings, roads without any side structure and lots of columns. Never enough columns here is my observation. Especially the wedding venues and they are plentiful! Albanians are serious about being Albanian and marriage to a fellow Albanian is the thing to do with family travelling back each summer for the plethora of weddings arranged to coincide with these visits. Their whole tribe or clan culture is incredibly important.
They may have spied on each other and committed torture until the mid 1990 but its good to see these family values.
Berat, Albania
Berat, Albania
Beautiful Berat and on the UNESCO world heritage list! Mainly due to the castle.
Berat, often called the “Town of a Thousand Windows,” is one of Albania’s oldest cities, with roots stretching back to Illyrian and Byzantine times. Its white Ottoman houses climb the hillside beneath a hilltop castle that has watched over the city for centuries, while cobbled streets wind past churches, mosques, and museums. Known for its unique architecture, rich history, and vibrant cultural heritage, Berat feels like stepping into a living snapshot of the past.
This afternoon we headed up to Berat Castle.
Some stats.
1km uphill. And I really mean UPHILL. My thighs are barking!
1.2kms of walls surround one of three layers of walled defence.
Houses contained within the walls are mostly 16th century
The site expands over 9.6ha with 12 orthodox churches and 1 mosque
4BC originally build of the castle
And there are 110 houses, handed from generation to generation, previously housing 2400 people.
It was extraordinary.
I like Borat.....spelling intended.....
The road to Ohrid
Another exceptionally early start (9am) and off we went to Lake Ohrid, our gateway into Macedonia.
Leaving Albania, we climbed through winding mountain roads toward the Macedonian border. The hills grew whiter with every turn until snow dusted the pines and the roadside — an unexpected pause for coffee and photos that felt more Alps than Balkans.
The border itself was lined with old concrete bunkers, relics from another era standing silent and stubborn against the cold. Moments later, the contrast hit — modern highways, slick new shopping centres, and the unmistakable sense that Macedonia was on the move.
About Macedonia
Macedonia’s history stretches back to antiquity, with Alexander the Great’s empire putting the region on the world stage. Over the centuries it’s been ruled by Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans, each leaving layers of culture, religion, and architecture. In modern times, it was part of Yugoslavia until declaring independence in 1991. Today it’s officially called North Macedonia, after a long naming dispute with Greece, but the country still proudly carries its Macedonian identity.
Macedonia is a small country with a big personality, where Ottoman-era bazaars sit beside Orthodox monasteries and dramatic mountain landscapes. Skopje surprises with its mix of modern quirks and historic landmarks, while Ohrid - often called the “Jerusalem of the Balkans” offers lakeside charm, ancient churches, and some of the clearest water in Europe. It’s a place that feels both off-the-radar and timeless.
Philip II of Macedonia and Alexander the Great
Philip II of Macedonia and Alexander the Great
Philip II of Macedonia (382–336 BC)
Philip wasn’t born into a mighty empire — Macedonia was a rough northern backwater when he took over in 359 BC. But he was sharp, ruthless, and a brilliant military innovator. He restructured the army with the Macedonian phalanx (long sarissas, professional soldiers, coordinated cavalry), and then systematically took over the Greek city-states. By 338 BC, after winning the Battle of Chaeronea, he was effectively ruler of Greece through the League of Corinth. His plan was to invade Persia, but he was assassinated before he could go — possibly with his wife Olympias and son Alexander involved in the conspiracy.
Alexander the Great (356–323 BC)
Alexander inherited the throne at just 20 and immediately started making history. Tutored by Aristotle, he was as much philosopher as conqueror. He crushed revolts in Greece, then launched his father’s planned invasion of Persia in 334 BC. Over the next decade, he built one of the largest empires in history — from Greece to Egypt, Persia, and into India — defeating Darius III and never losing a battle. He founded over 20 cities named Alexandria, spread Greek culture across the known world (the Hellenistic Age), and inspired centuries of myth-making.
He died suddenly in Babylon at 32 — fever, poison, or exhaustion, take your pick — leaving no clear heir and an empire that quickly tore itself apart under his generals, the Diadochi.
Lake Ohrid, Macedonia
Lake Ohrid, Macedonia
Then came the prize: Lake Ohrid — one of Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes, spreading 349 square kilometres and plunging 234 metres deep. It’s actually bigger than Malta. The town itself is wrapped in red rooftops, cobblestones, and charm, with 366 churches, one for every day of the year. Tito once had a home here, and standing on the shore, it’s easy to see why. The water barely ripples, and time seems to move differently.
Lake Ohrid to Skopje
The drive from Lake Ohrid to Skopje is a journey through Macedonia’s varied landscapes, where turquoise lakes give way to rolling hills, craggy mountains, and fertile valleys. The roads wind past small villages and ancient churches, offering glimpses of rural life untouched by time. As you climb toward the north, the scenery becomes increasingly dramatic, with the distant peaks of the Šar Mountains hinting at the capital ahead. It’s a route that’s as much about the journey as the destination, each turn revealing another layer of the country’s natural and cultural tapestry.
Skopje, Macedonia
Skopje, Macedonia
Where History, Hollywood and Headless Pigeons Collide
Where History, Hollywood and Headless Pigeons Collide
Crossing into North Macedonia, Skopje hits you with a strange mix of grandeur and “wait, what?” moments. The capital sits along the Vardar River, its skyline stitched together with Ottoman bridges, brutalist apartment blocks and enough statues to make Rome feel under-decorated.
The Skopje 2014 project clearly had a budget and a dream — somewhere between “ancient empire revival” and “Vegas does history.” Towering bronze warriors, poets, saints, lions, horses and the occasional angel crowd every square and roundabout. Depending who you ask, there are around 300 statues — though even locals seem to have lost count years ago.
At the centre of it all stands a very large, very heroic “Warrior on a Horse” (everyone knows it’s Alexander the Great, even if the plaque diplomatically avoids saying so). Nearby, his mother and father get their own statues, as do most of the family, because why stop at one when you can have the trilogy?
The Old Bazaar, however, is a completely different story — winding cobblestone alleys, Ottoman inns turned cafés, and mosques that whisper of centuries past. Cross the Stone Bridge from the square and you’re suddenly in another world: less marble, more meaning.
Skopje is also proud of its modern side — glass malls, hip cafés, and an unexpectedly strong cocktail game. And while the earthquakes of 1963 forced the city to rebuild much of itself, there’s a quiet resilience under all the ornamentation.
Love it or raise an eyebrow at it, Skopje’s charm lies in its contradictions: part museum, part movie set, and fully unapologetic about either.
Skopje to Bitola
The drive from Skopje to Bitola takes you deep into Macedonia’s heartland, crossing a patchwork of plains, river valleys, and rugged foothills. Along the way, small towns and villages offer a glimpse of everyday life, while historic monasteries and Ottoman-era architecture hint at the region’s layered past. The road gradually climbs toward the Pelagonia plain, opening onto wide fields framed by distant mountains, until Bitola appears—a city where history, culture, and vibrant street life converge.
Bitola, Macedonia
Bitola, Macedonia
Rolling into Bitola, one of North Macedonia’s oldest cities — where every era left its mark. Founded in the 4th century BC by Philip II of Macedon (father of Alexander the Great), it later thrived as the Roman town of Heraclea Lyncestis, sitting proudly on the ancient Via Egnatia trade route. The Byzantines turned it into a bishopric, the Ottomans into a diplomatic hub known as the City of Consuls.
Today it’s all elegant neoclassical streets, Ottoman mosques, and Roman mosaics — a living museum wrapped around a lively café strip called Širok Sokak, with Pelister National Park just over its shoulder.
History, charm, and a bit of empire dust in the air.
And it is. But its also a victim of the 1950 and 1960 brutalistic buildings that still horrify me today. Photos of residential and civilian infrastructure included.
They speak about the main pedestrian precinct as being the Champs d'Elysees of Macedonia, but i think maybe not.
Its been awesome and I've loved Macedonia, it has a lot to offer, but needs some TLC to be able to offer it more comprehensively!
Heraclea, Macedonia
Heraclea, Macedonia
Just outside Bitola lies Heraclea Lyncestis, an ancient city founded by Philip II of Macedon and named for the hero Heracles. Walking among its ruins, you can explore a Roman theatre, impressive public baths, and early Christian basilicas adorned with intricate mosaics that have survived centuries. Once a bustling hub on the Via Egnatia, the city thrived under Roman rule before eventually fading after invasions and earthquakes. Today, wandering its cobbled streets and stepping over the colorful mosaics, you get a real sense of history underfoot—ancient empires, medieval struggles, and the layers of human life that shaped this remarkable site.
Leaving Skopje (via Heraculea) and crossing out of Macedonia into Greece feels a bit like stepping from one chapter of Balkan drama straight into the sequel. These two neighbours share more than a border — they share a long, heated argument over history, names, and national pride. For years, Greece refused to even recognise “Macedonia” as a name, claiming it belonged exclusively to the ancient kingdom of Alexander the Great. After decades of political bickering (and a lot of UN mediation), the “North” was finally added in 2019, making it officially North Macedonia — though you’ll still find plenty of locals who mutter otherwise. The rivalry runs deep, but for the traveler crossing the border, it’s less about politics and more about the sudden change in scenery: Orthodox domes giving way to olive groves, Balkan grit softening into Mediterranean light.
And for me, hopefully heat as it's seen an unseasonably cold snap and I've had to steal clothes from men in bars!
The next part of my adventure is below.....
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