About Greece
Greece is the original overachiever. Its the birthplace of democracy, philosophy, theatre, and most of the concepts the rest of us still trot out to sound wise. It’s basically the civilisation that set the bar unreasonably high for everyone else. Even Scotland, land of “we invented everything from penicillin to the pneumatic tyre, by the way,” has to nod respectfully at the scale of Greek bragging rights.
Its history reads like a blockbuster: ancient city-states bickering and dazzling in equal measure, Alexander the Great storming off to rearrange half the known world, then centuries of Byzantine brilliance followed by Ottoman rule before Greece muscled its way back to independence.
What makes it magic, though, is how all that epic history just… coexists with modern life. Crumbling temples casually flank cafés where locals debate football, politics, and who makes the superior souvlaki. The islands shimmer like someone turned up the saturation, while the mainland hides mountain villages and myth-soaked valleys that make you rethink every “ancient history” lecture you ever ignored.
Today Greece is all warm hospitality, delightful chaos, sunlight, and stories—equally capable of feeding your inner philosopher and convincing you to ditch your itinerary entirely. Five minutes in, and you’re ordering another wine and wondering why you ever pretended you liked being efficient.
This might be the place that finally convinces you to slow down, breathe, and order another glass of wine because, honestly, what’s the rush?
Leaving Skopje (via Heraculea) and crossing out of Macedonia into Greece feels a bit like stepping from one chapter of Balkan drama straight into the sequel. These two neighbours share more than a border. They share a long, heated argument over history, names, and national pride. For years, Greece refused to even recognise “Macedonia” as a name, claiming it belonged exclusively to the ancient kingdom of Alexander the Great. After decades of political bickering (and a lot of UN mediation), the “North” was finally added in 2019, making it officially North Macedonia, though you’ll still find plenty of locals who mutter otherwise. The rivalry runs deep, but for the traveler crossing the border, it’s less about politics and more about the sudden change in scenery: Orthodox domes giving way to olive groves, Balkan grit softening into Mediterranean light.
And for me, hopefully heat as it's seen an unseasonably cold snap (early October) and I've had to steal clothes from men in bars!
But first we had to get to out first Grecian destination and the road over a very mountainous region with its windy, narrow roads was one that tested the tummy of less tolerant travellers. Thankfully not me!
The next part of my adventure into Greece is below.....
Kastoria, perched on the edge of a serene lake in northern Greece, is a city that feels like it’s been paused in time. Famous for its Byzantine churches—over 70 survive within the city—it was once a thriving hub of fur trade and craftsmanship, giving it a wealth and charm reflected in its well-preserved mansions along the lakefront. The old town climbs the hillsides with narrow cobbled streets, where Ottoman-era architecture blends with neoclassical homes, and the lake mirrors the surrounding mountains for a picture-perfect setting. Kastoria is a place of quiet elegance, where history, natural beauty, and a sense of timelessness meet.
The road to Litochoro
We had the morning in Kastoria and so it was a midday start.
As we exited our tiny lakeside town the hills continued and soon we found ourselves, on larger motorways eating up the kms to our destination.
The scenery was spectacular and sometimes you could be forgiven for mixing it up with some rugged Scottish countryside. Yes, it was that beautiful. Smaller mountains with river and lake filled valleys below.
Three hours later we were in the beautiful little town of Litochoro.
What a great little town and spectacular views! Spectacular.
Litochoro is a small town on the eastern slopes of Mount Olympus in northern Greece, and it has long been the gateway to the legendary home of the Greek gods. Its history is closely tied to the mountain itself: the town has served as a base for pilgrims, climbers, and travellers since ancient times. In the 19th century, Litochoro became a centre of resistance during the Greek War of Independence, with locals supporting revolutionary efforts against Ottoman rule. Today, it retains a traditional Greek mountain-town charm, with cobbled streets, neoclassical houses, and a backdrop of dramatic peaks, making it both a historical hub and a starting point for exploring the myths and natural beauty of Olympus.
A taxi carried us up the winding roads of Mount Olympus to the start of the trail leading to the monastery. The 5 km walk follows a mix of rugged paths and more established sections, where wooden bridges span trickling streams and small waterfalls add a sense of calm to the descent. The trail winds through forested slopes, offering glimpses of the surrounding peaks and the valley below. Careful footing is required along the steeper or rockier sections, and the pace is best set to accommodate all walkers. After negotiating the descent, the monastery comes into view, its stone buildings illuminated by the sun and framed by the natural beauty of the mountain. The taxi ride back down completed a rewarding excursion that blends history, architecture, and the striking landscapes of Olympus.
The road to Athens
We were up at 5 am for a 5.45 taxi to Katerini Station, arriving just in time for our 6.15 train to Athens.
As someone who loves a good train journey, I was pretty excited and Hellenic Railways did not disappoint. Plush purple seats, plenty of legroom, power points, and generous luggage space made the five-hour ride a pleasure. As we headed south, the scenery unfolded like a shifting painting. Hills that could have been Scotland, plains reminiscent of the US or Australia and the rising sun to our left added a serene glow to the journey. Time flew by as we watched the passing countryside and before we knew it, the train was slowing into Athens Larissa Station. Navigating the Athens Metro proved surprisingly easy: just three lines, three track intersections, clear signage in Greek and English, and only one change. Ten minutes later, we were at the bottom of our street in the center of Athens and ready to explore the city.
Athens - I love it. In fact it was love at first sight! Its a city that blends ancient history with modern life, and it’s easy to see why so many, like me, fall in love with it. The city takes its name from Athena, the daughter of Zeus and goddess of wisdom and war, whose spirit still seems to hover over the streets and hills. At the heart of Athens rises the Acropolis, home to iconic structures like the Parthenon and the smaller Temple of Athena Nike, a reconstructed Ionic temple adorned with intricate sculptures celebrating victory and devotion. The Ionic order, one of the three classical Greek architectural styles alongside Doric and Corinthian, l contrasts with the more robust lines of the Parthenon.
The only thing I didn't love was the transport strike that happened on, what should have been, our ferry trip to Syros. But it did mean I could go down to the beach area of Athens on the tram. It was divine..... until I tried to get back before the industrial action came into force at 5pm. That's when things got ugly and I got stranded!
The Acropolis Museum, opened in 2009, houses treasures from these historic sites, including casts of the Elgin Marbles, the 244 pieces controversially removed by Lord Elgin in the early 19th century. Walking through the museum, it’s impossible not to be struck by the skill, creativity, and sheer scale of the artistry on display, each piece a tangible link to the city’s golden age. Athens is a place where mythology, history, and daily life intersect, offering both a window into the past and a vibrant, living culture that continues to captivate visitors. And let me tell you, Athenians are passionate about being Athenians! Just ask them. But not about the Elgin Marbles. That's a conversation to avoid.
So where to stay in Athens? Well, I had the pleasure of a couple of places both in Plaka and Monastiraki. Both amazing for tourism and food. Going back, I'd pick the main street in Monastriaki again, heres why...
Plaka’s the charming old-town bit with narrow lanes, neoclassical houses, very “postcard Athens.”
Monastiraki is louder and grittier with markets, street energy, rooftop bars with killer Acropolis views.
Athens has a well-connected public transport system: metro, buses/trolleybuses, tram, and suburban rail.
The metro has 3 lines and links with both suburban rail and the tram.
Line 1 is mostly overground and runs from the northern suburbs (Kifissia) all the way down to Piraeus port.
Buses and trolleybuses cover most of the city, running roughly 5 am–midnight.
The tram connects central Athens to coastal suburbs like Faliro and Voula, and links up with metro/suburban rail at several stops (Syntagma, Neos Kosmos, etc.). Prosvasimo
From Athens Airport (Eleftherios Venizelos):
Metro: Use Line 3 (Blue). It links the airport with central Athens and even reaches Piraeus port. One-way tickets cost about €9.
Express Buses: Four 24-hour routes connect the airport with key points: Syntagma Square (X95), Piraeus port (X96), and bus terminals. Fare is around €5.50.
Suburban Railway (Proastiakos): Also links the airport to Piraeus and Larissis/central stations.
Taxi: Flat rate from airport to city centre — €40 during the day, €55 at night.
To get from Athens to Piraeus Port:
Ticketing and Fares
Use the Ath.ena ticket/card system for pretty much all public transport (metro, tram, buses) — tickets are valid for 90 minutes.
Standard single fare is ~€1.20–€1.40 (depends on source) for city transport.
There are also day passes, 5-day tickets, and tourist cards.
Note: Airport transport (metro, train) uses a special fare.
Summary
Fastest way around city: Metro.
To/from airport: Blue metro line, express buses, or suburban rail.
To the port: Metro Line 1, suburban train, or buses.
Coastal trips: Tram is handy for suburbs and beach areas.
This little blonde traveller was excited. Island hopping in Greece is something people dream about and this was about to be mine. The excitment got to me and I was awake from 2am. It was a long night of watching movies until our 6.15am group meeting. Suffice to say I was out of my room and downstairs by 5.45am. Yep, I was excited.
The taxi run to the port was a surprise in itself. The streets by my hotel apparently moonlight as a neon-lit collection of sex clubs (oh hello) but Piraeus is the real show. I knew it was big, but the scale is something else: ferries lined up like a maritime catwalk. FastFerry, Hellenic Seaways, Aegean Speed Lines, Blue Star (my vessel of transport ), all glowing under the floodlights, all looking ready to whisk people off to islands they can’t pronounce.
Ferry travel from Piraeus is actually brilliant once you’re aboard. You’ve got everything from slow, scenic giants to high-speed catamarans, with sailings to pretty much every corner of the Aegean. It’s organised chaos, but it works - just don’t expect anyone to baby you. And absolutely don’t leave your bag unattended; travelling without my wonderful companion from my last trip left me painfully aware of my bladder weakness and my lack of a trusted lookout.
An hour in, three to go, and I finally settled into ferry life. By 11.30 we docked, and by noon I was checked into the hotel on Syros; mildly sleep-deprived, thoroughly caffeinated, and very pleased with myself for surviving a 2am start.
Syros is the understated beauty of the family. Ermoupoli has neoclassical charm for days, marble streets, pastel buildings, little lanes that twist just enough to keep things interesting, and none of the “I must fight twenty influencers for a photo” nonsense. It feels lived-in, real, elegant — the sort of island where you can exhale properly. Just bliss....
We had an outstanding dinner at Mitsos, perched high on the island with views that honestly stopped us mid-sentence. As the sun dropped, the white buildings glowed, Ermoupoli lit up, and the churches appeared like beacons — absolutely stunning. Our amazing guide had sorted everything, including transport and a spread of dishes: three salads, a baked cheese masterpiece, and some ridiculously good red-pepper-ish fritters with tzatziki. Mains ranged from liver and chips to pork with mash, beef cheek with pasta, and spicy little sliders — all superb. We finished with a glass of masticha, that fragrant tree-sap liqueur made only on Chios, and it was the perfect end to an unforgettable night. Dinner there is a must.
But note to self, when you talk the group into "one for the road" don't go drinking in biker bars!
Syros to Mykonos
This was an easy hour on the amazingly efficient ferry. We were hardly on and settled when we were off again. Simple. However the one to Santorini is promised to be an absolutle doozy!
Mykonos is unapologetically divine. The classic Cycladic white cubes, the tangled laneways, the blue doors, the windmills (yes) all exactly as pretty as Instagram wants you to believe, except in real life you’re dodging cruise-ship day-trippers like some kind of quaint, nautical obstacle course. Still, the place works. It’s beautiful, outrageous, and strangely impossible not to love, even when you’re elbow-to-elbow with three thousand people who all arrived ten minutes ago. The waterfront bars and the windmills (yes!) are things not to be missed. I loved it here.
A quick 45 minute hop from Old Town Mykonos lands you on the old UNESCO site of the Island of Delos. This is the island where gods were supposedly born and mortals got rich.
According to Greek mythology, Apollo and Artemis entered the world here, which made Delos the most sacred spot in the Aegean for centuries. Estimated 700 to 100 BC, the Romans turned it into a trading powerhouse (and a rather shady slave market), so let’s just say its history swings from divine to dubious.
These days, no one lives there. There's no hotels, no cafes, just a few hundred cats. The ancient ruins, marble lions keeping watch, and sea views that remind you why the gods picked this postcode. You can only visit by ferry from Mykonos, but it’s absolutely worth the trip. Think of it as Mykonos’ serious older sibling with less champagne but more civilisation.
This was followed by dinner at Baboulos, sitting on the seashore of the old town, sampling a fusion of Greek and Italian cuisine with a seafood focus. Unfortunately the tourists were in from the ships and town was busy - for us. But not for the locals who view the 2,000 tourists scornfully and long for the 25k ++ each evening in the height of summer season. Really?
Mykonos to Santorini
The mosh pit and the fast ferry.
Today was Santorini day, which meant bracing ourselves for the inter-island jet boat and the chaos that apparently comes with it. Our guide had given us the warning: “Get in fast. Drop your bag. Get upstairs. You do NOT want to be in the garage when the ferry goes.” I assumed she was being dramatic. She was not.
The ramp dropped and suddenly a couple of hundred people surged forward like someone had announced free Prosecco. We abandoned our bags in a corner of steel beams and bolted for the stairs. There was already a huge queue to get up them. Also by the time we reached them (or the end of the queue), the boat was already edging away from the dock; by the time we found our seats, we were practically halfway to Naxos.
And the docking? Utter madness in the most impressive way. I filmed the stop at Naxos: less than three minutes to punt against a concrete wall, unload cars and passengers, reload new ones, lift the ramp, and punch it back out to sea. Our amphibious forces worldwide could take notes.
What I hadn’t grasped until now is just how enormous and slick the Greek ferry system is. It's a floating highway of ships zipping between islands with military precision. Brilliant for island hopping… but trust me, this is off-peak. Come summer, it must be absolute bedlam.
What ferry head looks like
When a colour makes you smile
Santorini from the sea
Cruise ships FULL of tourists
Santorini really is the drama queen of the Greek Islands but in the best possible way. Those luminous white towns spilling down volcanic cliffs… honestly, there’s no bad angle. Oia and Fira are spectacular they almost don’t look real and from the sea look like snow topped hills! But yes, the cruise ships do roll in, and suddenly you’re sharing the world's most romantic sunset with half of Western Europe with a huge dollop of US tourists too. Doesn’t matter. You’ll still gasp, still take too many photos, and still forgive Santorini for being over-loved and over-priced because it really is that good.